Cantilever gates that open by moving the guide along roller supports away from the opening are called differently: sliding gates, sliding gates, cantilever sliding gates. The article is useful for those who are interested in how to make sliding gates with their own hands and contains instructions for installing sliding gates. Below are the scheme of sliding gates, drawings of sliding gates, recommendations for preparing the opening, scheme of the foundation of sliding gates, recommendations for mounting sliding gates.
Sliding gate device
Sliding gate scheme
- guide beam
- Roller support (trolley)
- Removable end roller
- Bottom catcher
- Top catcher
- Upper retainer with rollers (bracket)
- Stand
On the foundation for sliding (retractable) gates, two bearing roller bearings are installed. A guide beam is welded to the lower edge of the sliding gate leaf. Supports perceive the main load from the gate and ensure the movement of the sash. Supports are mounted on supports or with the help of embedded bolts.
In the cantilevered part, the gates are mounted on load-bearing roller bearings. The support rollers are located inside the carrier beam. Sliding gates of this design are easy to open manually, it ensures reliable operation of the drive in winter.
A prerequisite for the manufacture of sliding gates
The gate leaf must be rigid in order to withstand weight and wind loads. The canvas should not bend under its own weight. The guide is welded to the rigid sash.
Sliding gate drawings
For the manufacture of the outer frame of the gate, a profile pipe 60x40x2 mm is used, the crate is made of a pipe 20x20x1.5 mm. A drawing of the gate frame for an opening 3 meters wide is shown below:
A guide is welded to the finished structure of the gate frame (the drawing shows the ECO guide from ROLTEK)
Choice of accessories
The type of components for sliding metal gates is selected based on the total weight of the installed gate, the width of the opening to be blocked and the height of the gate tight. The main structural element of sliding gates, which determines the performance and durability, is the guide. We recommend using accessories for Rolltek gates.
Manufacturing and installation
You can make sliding self-supporting gates with your own hands and install sliding gates, knowing some of the features of the installation and design of sliding gates. The sliding gate leaf moves along the fence from the side of the site (house). Therefore, it is necessary to provide a place where the door leaf will roll back.
In the diagram - an option with the right side of the gate rollback. The gate moves along the fence from the inside of the territory, so it is necessary to provide that their movement is not interfered with. The distance to which the gate will roll back must be greater than the width of the gate opening by the size of the cantilever part (the part that does not cover the opening and serves as a counterweight).
The length of the cantilever is approximately 1/2 the width of the opening. Accordingly, the section required for the movement of the gate must be at least the width of the opening * 1.5 in length and 400 mm in width, usually enough. If the opening meets the requirements, then you can install sliding gates.
To install sliding gates with your own hands you will need:
- Lay the foundation: mark the pit and remove the soil, make and install the embedded element, fill the pit with concrete
- If the gate will be automated, do the cabling
- Install gate and return post
- Install automatic sliding gates
Making a concrete base
Marking the pit for the foundation for sliding gates
On the rollback side of the gate, starting from the edge of the opening, along the fence, set aside a distance equal to half the width of the passage (this is the length of the concrete base). Step back from the plane of the fence about 500 mm deep into the territory, along the entire length of this segment, and you will get the perimeter of the pit necessary for making the foundation of the sliding gate.
If the fence posts cannot be used as support for sliding gates, on the opposite side of the opening, opposite the pit for the concrete base, mark the pit for the return post. The pit should be located in such a way that the pole installed in it can adjoin the fence line from the inside without narrowing the opening.
If the gate will be automated, then it is necessary to provide for the possibility of laying a cable under the roadway between the pillars. For these purposes, use a metal or plastic pipe with an inner diameter of at least 25 mm.
Excavation
The soil is removed to a depth exceeding the freezing depth, at least 200 mm. For the Moscow region, the freezing depth is 1.5 m, respectively, the depth of the foundation pit is at least 1.7 m.
Production of a mortgage element
For the manufacture of the embedded element, you will need a channel 16, equal to the length of the pit for a concrete base, and reinforcement d 12 for ties and reinforcement bars. First, we weld pieces of reinforcement or corners to the workpiece from the channel, approximately 1500 mm long.
Installing the embedded element in the finished pit
We lower the resulting structure into the pit with the reinforcement down and fix it so that the side surface of the channel fits snugly against the existing fence post. The body of the channel must be strictly horizontal (use a spirit level) and parallel to the line of movement of the gate.
Particular attention should be paid to the level of the upper plane of the embedded element relative to the level of the road surface in the gate opening. The clearance from the roadway to the lower edge of the gate depends on the level and height of the embedded element.
If the embedded element is installed flush with the level of the road surface, then when using adjusting platforms, the minimum clearance under the gate (the distance from the road surface to the lower edge of the door leaf) will be 100-110 mm. It is possible to increase the gap by several centimeters with the help of adjusting platforms, but it will not be possible to reduce the gap (provided that the support rollers are fastened in a manufacturable way).
If the standard gap of 70-100 mm does not suit you, it is necessary to install the embedded element at a level below the carriageway at the desired distance.
Separately, I would like to dwell on cases where fence posts cannot be used as support for sliding gates or when the upper edge of the gate is decorated with a “crown” or peaks, as well as on cases where there is a need to install two support posts.
It is necessary to prepare one or two supporting posts, depending on the case that suits the situation (weak posts or wide gates). The size of the posts must be 50 mm more than the height from the foundation to the top edge of the gate. Finished poles (or pole) are installed in the pit and connected to the embedded element as shown in the figure.
Embedded part for sliding gates with two supporting pillars.
Filling the hole with concrete
After you have installed the embedded element, you need to fill the pit with concrete. The level of concrete in the pit should not cover the surface of the embedded element. After you have filled the mortgages with concrete, you must give the concrete time to harden, at least 6 days.
Gate installation
Define and mark the line of movement of the gate
Pull the cord along the opening, marking the entire line of movement of the gate leaf. In this case, the distance from the return post to the cord should be 20-30 mm. The cord is best placed at a height of 150-200 mm. This will be a tangent line to the outer edge of the carrier profile.
Preparing roller trolleys for installation
Fix the adjusting pads on the caster platform as shown in the figure.
Determining the boundaries of the position of the roller bearings
From the edge of the opening, along the plane of the embedded element, retreat 150 mm and draw a line. This will be the tangent to the front edge of the first roller. The end position of the second roller bearing is determined as follows: it is necessary to measure the total length of the door, including the cantilever part; subtract 100 mm from this size; set aside the resulting segment, starting from the edge of the counter post, through the opening, on the plane of the embedded element. This will be the tangent to the outer edge of the second roller.
Assembly
Insert the roller trolleys prepared for assembly into the carrier profile one after the other. Move them to the center of the gate. Place the gate vertically, with roller bearings on the embedded element. Install the first and second supports close to the corresponding tangents, and the gate, parallel and close to the cord.
Adjusting the horizontal position of the shield and the position of the roller bearings
Weld on the adjusting pads of the second roller bearing. Then roll the gate all the way into the opening and make final adjustments to the horizontal position of the gate, if necessary. After that, it is necessary to grab the adjusting platforms of the first roller bearing.
- Remove the sliding door leaf from the roller bearings.
- We remove the roller bearings from the adjusting platforms.
- We weld, along the contour, the adjusting platforms, welding them to the embedded element.
- We fix the roller bearings on the adjusting platforms.
- Slide the sliding gate leaf onto the roller bearings.
- Install the gate in the closed position.
- Set the level on the plane of the carrier profile, and with a wrench, set the sliding gate leaf to the horizon using the adjusting platforms (raising or lowering, relative to each other, the roller carts on the studs of the adjusting platforms).
* The horizontal position of the sliding gate is set only for the closed state of the gate.
Adjusting the position of the roller bearings inside the carrier profile
Loosen the fastenings of the roller bearings to the adjusting platforms (top nuts only) and roll the gate in the range from the extreme closed to the extreme open position. This is done so that the roller bearings take the correct position inside the carrier profile. After making sure that the gate rolls easily, tighten the fasteners of the roller bearings.
After that, check if there are any undesirable changes in the rolling quality of the gate. If after pulling the sliding gate leaf began to move worse, be sure to loosen the fasteners and eliminate possible distortions of the roller bearings on the fasteners.
*Particular attention should be paid to the plane transverse to the movement of the gate.
Installing the End Roller and Carrier Profile End Cap
Insert the end roller inside the carrier profile, from the front edge of the door leaf, and tighten the fixing bolts. And put a welding point between the end roller cover and the carrier profile. Welding is necessary because when manually using sliding gates, the end roller is often the end stop. And, given the inertia of the door leaf, the bolted connection will not hold the end roller in place.
On the rear side of the gate, it is necessary to install and weld the end cap of the carrier profile. The plug is supplied with the gate. It is necessary to install a plug so that in winter, when opening the gate, snow does not accumulate inside the carrier profile. Since if this happens, then at the moment of closing, the snow rolled by rollers can jam the gate.
Installing the Top Guide Bracket
Weaken the fasteners of the rollers of the guide bracket. We install it above the door leaf so that the rollers wrap around the upper edge of the leaf, and the side of the guide bracket with holes for fasteners should be directed towards the support post. Attach the bracket to the support post. Attach the bracket to the support post. Using a level, set the door leaf to a vertical position and fix it with the rollers of the guide bracket.
Door leaf sheathing
If the sliding gates are sheathed, then the next step is to mount the profiled sheet on the frame. The sheet can be ordered cut to size in height and width. Installation of sheets must begin from the front edge of the gate. The sheet is inserted inside the frame perimeter and fastened to the gate crate with metal screws or riveted. The second is preferable.
After the first sheet is fixed, we install the second sheet overlay on the first one by one wave and fasten it. We continue laying and mounting sheets sequentially until the canvas is filled. If the last sheet does not fit into the perimeter, then it is cut to size
Installation of the upper and lower catchers
The lower catcher is designed to partially remove the load from the roller bearings at the moment when the gate is in the closed state. Its installation is carried out only with a fully loaded gate. To determine the position of the lower catcher, close the gate and move it from below under the end roller until it touches firmly. The reference plane of the catcher must not be higher than the position of the end roller.
The upper catcher is designed to keep the door leaf from swinging under sail loads in the closed position. The upper catcher is mounted at the level of the protective corners installed on the leading edge of the web, so that in the closed position these corners touch the brackets of the upper catcher.
Installation of automation
In order for the electric drive to move the sliding gate leaf, a toothed rack is attached to it. This part is universal and suitable for electric gate drives of any manufacturer. The rail is sold in pieces of 1 meter complete with fasteners.
The problem of limited space is relevant not only for urban, but also for suburban life. It may occur already at the entrance to the territory of your personal plot. At the same time, very often, the problem is aggravated by the presence of swing gates, which require a lot of free space to open. A completely different situation is with retractable structures, which almost always successfully solve a similar problem. From this article you will learn how to make sliding gates with your own hands and what is their main advantage over the traditional type of entrance gate.
Key features of sliding gates
Sliding gates are a modern and practical design that saves a lot of free space needed to open them. The peculiarity lies in the fact that the door leaf moves along the fence, while taking up a minimum of space. This is the main advantage of sliding gates over swing gates.
Modern classification involves the division of sliding gates into varieties according to the following criteria:
The degree of automation of opening and closing the gate
According to this parameter, two types of structures are distinguished:
- Mechanical;
- Automatic.
Mechanical sliding gates are the cheapest and easiest option. Opening, as well as closing such structures is carried out only manually.
Automatic sliding gates have much broader functionality than their mechanical counterparts. A person participates only in pressing buttons.
Despite the fact that gates with an automatic opening mechanism are much more expensive than conventional ones, they are one of the most popular types of structures today.
Interesting to know! The price of automatic gates depends not only on the features of the opening mechanism, but also on the type of automation used.
Sliding gate automation
The door leaf moves through the use of an electric drive, which can be started in the following ways:
Start button
The device is turned on by pressing the corresponding button. The disadvantage of this method is that the button is located directly next to the gate.
Remote control (RC)
This is a much more convenient option than the button method. The remote control allows you to open the gate from a distance. In this case, it should be located directly in front of the receiver. Limit switches are provided to stop the web.
GSM module
It is the most advanced way to control sliding gates. The distance here does not matter at all, and you can give a command to open or close structures from another country or even a continent. The main thing is that the areas are provided with high-quality mobile GSM-communication.
The device and design of sliding gates
According to this criterion, sliding gates are divided into three types:
- Rail;
- Suspended;
- Console.
- rail gate- are the easiest option to manufacture. The shield together with the frame moves by means of rollers along a special guide rail fixed on the base. This type of construction can be used on various openings, but the most popular is the opening - the minimum width and height of which is 7 m and 2.4 m (respectively).
Gates on rails are not limited in terms of the location of the drive, putting the least load on it. However, the rail of such structures requires additional maintenance, especially in winter.
- Hanging gate- are very similar to their rail counterparts, except that the guide rail is placed at the top of the structure, and the shield, together with the frame, is suspended from it by means of rollers. Thus, such structures set certain restrictions on the height of the passing vehicle, which depends on the level of the guide rail.
The drive mechanism is also located at the top, which significantly complicates the work associated with the repair and maintenance of equipment.
The installation of suspended sliding gates is most in demand on inclined areas and in non-standard openings.
- Cantilever gate- do not have any restrictions in terms of the height of the opening. There is also no need to equip the foundation along the length of the structure, this is due to the lack of a guide rail.
A big disadvantage of the cantilever type gate is the need to install a reinforced support post that supports the weight of the entire structure, as well as the presence of additional space for the counterweight and the console. The standard console is in demand in openings with a height and width of 2.4 m and 6 m (respectively).
Number of sliding doors
There are two types of sliding gates:
- Single leaf;
- Double-leaf.
The second option, in addition to an additional sash, requires the installation of an additional drive mechanism, which leads to a significant increase in the cost of the structure. That is why the demand for double-leaf sliding gates is less than for single-leaf ones.
Do-it-yourself sliding gates (drawings, diagrams)
If you decide to install sliding gates with your own hands, do not forget that the convenient and long-term functioning of structures is determined by a number of factors that must be taken into account.
To make a canvas for sliding gates, you will need a set of locksmith tools, which include:
- apparatus for welding;
- carpentry clamps;
- grinder with cutting and grinding discs;
- measuring tape or tape measure from 7 m long;
- chalk or pencil;
It is important to take into account that the finished metal structure should not have distortions and distortions, therefore, a perfectly flat area should be used for its welding.
Sliding gate device (diagram): 1 - Support bracket, 2 - steel frame, 3 - lower catcher, 4.5 - carrier carriages (rollers), 6 - electric drive
Fabrication and assembly of the frame
As an example, consider the manufacture of a classic sliding gate design with a counterweight, where the width of the entrance opening is 4 meters.
- To make reliable and durable sliding gates, which will serve you for decades, choose steel pipes with a wall thickness of at least 2 mm. The best option is a pipe with a rectangular cross section. 60×40.
Welding
- Cut to size and lay the side posts on the ground. Between them, lay the top and bottom bar so that you get an even rectangle. Please note that the bottom bar of the gate should be longer than the top one, as the brace will be attached to it.
- To ensure that the inside corners of the frame are straight and have ∠90°, check both diagonals, they should have the same length. Thus, you will be able to avoid distortion of the structure.
- Grab each corner with a welding point and check the diagonals again. If nothing has changed, you can proceed to the final welding of the frame.
1.3 - upper and lower bar, 2.5 - side racks, 4 - guide rail, 6 - oblique support
Concrete works
Sliding gates - the design is quite heavy and so that they do not sag, a reliable base should be installed under the retaining element on which it will hold well.
Such a base is made of a metal channel 20 cm wide and a reinforced U-shaped frame.
- Using reinforcement with a diameter of 8-10 mm, a special hook and knitting wire, a frame is made that resembles the Russian letter "P";
- A channel is welded on top of the frame;
- The finished structure is lowered into the pit and concreted in such a way that its upper part protrudes 5-10 cm above ground level.
Important! Before using the laying site for its intended purpose, the concrete must be allowed to dry for at least 2 weeks.
locksmith work
The most difficult stages of work are behind, it remains to attach the pipes to the pillars and install the gate leaf on the roller bearings.
- First of all, roller carriages are welded to the channel along which the guide beam will walk;
- Then pipes are attached to the support pillars: a single 60 × 40, and a U-shaped profile welded from pipes of the same size;
- Further, traps are welded to the single pipe from above and below, and supporting rollers are welded to the U-shaped profile;
All welding and locksmith work can be carried out on your own only if you have the appropriate experience in this matter, otherwise it is better to contact qualified workers who can give guarantees for the work performed.
- An end roller is inserted into the guide beam and securely fastened with bolts. It works in tandem with the lower catcher and must fit exactly into it when the gate is closed.
- It remains to lubricate all the mechanisms and install the gate leaf in place. If everything is done correctly, the opening and closing of the gate should be smooth and easy, without vibration or any jerks.
Important! Over time, the gate leaf may sag a little, so it is advisable to weld the lower catcher a couple of millimeters below the level of the end roller.
Automation and fittings
If desired, the process of operating sliding gates can be made even more functional and convenient if you use not manual, but automated control.
When choosing automation, you should pay attention to the following parameters:
- Weight and type of sash construction;
- Condition and frequency of operation of the gate;
- Operating temperature range and engine power.
If the weight of the leaf exceeds 400 kg and the door is planned to be used in winter, it is better to use an industrial motor with a large power reserve, since the load at low temperatures increases greatly.
It is better to entrust the installation and connection of the electric drive to qualified specialists, although it is known from experience that many people cope with this task on their own.
As for the gate fittings, the service life of the entire structure will directly depend on its quality. You can purchase the necessary kit at any specialized store. Most importantly, do not forget to check with the seller for the availability of a certificate for the products.
Sliding gate accessories set: 1 - top catcher, 2 - supporting element, 3 - toothed bottom bar, 4 - bottom catcher, 5 - end roller, 6 - guide beam, 7 - roller support, 8 - rollers, 9 - electric drive
Conclusion from reading
If we take into account all the pros and cons of sliding gates, we can conclude that there are still more advantages. With its reliability and practicality, this type of fencing has long won the trust of professionals, moreover, this design will look modern and take up little space.
Different types of gates are used for the same purpose - restricting access to a private area. When choosing a product, you can be guided by different motives, but the main ones are ease of opening and closing, as well as saving space. Roller models correspond to both of these characteristics, while it is quite easy to mount sliding gates with your own hands: drawings, diagrams, design sketches are easily found on the Internet.
Today, many site owners install sliding gates on the entrance area.
Sliding gate device
Sliding gates can be of two types - roller and rail. The first type of construction involves the use of roller bearings and is quite simple to manufacture. Rail gates today are considered obsolete and rarely used.
Sliding gates can be used for both private and public areas
On the Internet you can find a large number of articles on how to make sliding gates with your own hands. This will require minimal skills in the field of construction, a certain number of specialized tools and patience. First you need to know that any roller sliding gates consist of the following elements:
- support or trolley - a cantilever part is installed on two supports;
- guide beam - takes on the load of the weight of the gate;
- lower catcher - takes the load of the support roller when the gate is closed;
- upper catcher - reduces the level of windage of the structure;
- removable roller - is a support for the edge of the gate at a time when they are closed;
- top latch or bracket - does not allow the sash to go sideways;
- stand - the basis for the supports along which the wings move.
Sliding gate design plan
You need to start installing the gate with the construction of a foundation, which will take on the main load of the structure. Supports are installed on top of it, along which the guide beam moves, the latter is welded directly to the wings.
Sliding gates can be operated manually or with an electric motor. Both types of construction imply the same installation scheme.
Sliding gate mounting scheme
Useful advice! When choosing a material for the sashes, keep in mind that it must be sufficiently rigid and durable, since the entire structure is exposed to wind. In addition, the canvas should not sag under its own weight.
How to choose rollers for sliding gates and other accessories
On the modern market there is a huge number of spare parts from which you can assemble sliding gates with your own hands. The main selection criteria are the width of the opening, the height of the leaves and the total weight of the structure. You can also select components using special programs on the websites of manufacturing companies.
The right choice of good components will ensure the reliability of the design
Particular attention should be paid to gates with an opening width exceeding 5 m. In this case, the load will be more than 600 kg, and this requires a special set of components for increased loads.
If you decide to assemble a sliding gate with your own hands from a video, then you need high-quality components. First, according to the drawings, photos and videos of sliding gates with an average beam with your own hands, you need to calculate the maximum load and other parameters, and then pick up sets of spare parts from the manufacturer you need. Below you can find the parameters of the installation kits of different companies:
Useful advice! When choosing components, contact an experienced specialist with ready-made calculations and a drawing. So you will not only save your time, but also get the best option for spare parts.
Sliding gate installation procedure
Gates should always be installed in a certain sequence:
- Foundation creation.
- Installation of cabling, if you are installing a version with an electric motor.
- Installation of the gate itself and the return post.
- Installation of automatic devices and checking the gate in action.
For each of the stages of installing sliding gates with your own hands, photos and drawings in large numbers can be found on the Internet.
The scheme of preparation of the opening for the installation of sliding gates
Tools required for sliding gate installation
To install sliding gates, you will need a number of specialized tools:
- Welding machine - it is better to give preference to the inverter model, it provides good quality of the seam and does not spoil the metal.
- Air Compressor - used to uniformly paint the gate. You can also paint with a brush or roller, but with a compressor, the paint layer will be as uniform as possible.
- Bulgarian and a set of disks - for cutting metal blanks.
- Hammer, drill, pliers, tape measure, level, riveter.
Drawings, diagrams, sketches, do-it-yourself hanging gate designs can be downloaded from many professional construction sites. There you will also find a list of specialized tools required for the manufacture of a particular type of gate.
Sliding gates can be made of various materials - wood, metal, corrugated board
Foundation device
The first stage of foundation construction is the marking of the pit. To do this, a distance is measured along the fence of the site, which is equal to 1/2 of the width of the gate opening. The width of the pit under the concrete base is about half a meter towards the site.
If possible, it is recommended to use fence posts as support pillars. Otherwise, a reciprocal pole is mounted, the pit under which is located opposite the foundation pit, and on the opposite side of the opening. In the case of installing automatic gates, it is imperative to provide a place for laying the electrical cable. As a casing, you can use a metal or PVC pipe with a diameter of about 25 mm.
Channel 200 mm is laid close to the post
Useful advice! The soil in the pit is taken out to the depth of freezing of the soil, that is, no less than 2 m.
The embedded element is made of a channel, to which pieces of reinforcement are tied from below. The element itself is placed in a hole so that the channel fits as closely as possible to the fence post. The horizontal position of the channel parallel to the opening direction of the gate should be checked with a level.
Concrete is poured over the embedded element, the level of which should be slightly higher than the surface of the element. After that, the concrete must be allowed to harden, it takes from 6 days. After the concrete foundation has hardened, you can proceed directly to the installation of the gate.
Scheme of concreting the base for sliding gates
The method described above is the most common, but there are a number of options for how to equip the foundation:
- The device of a pile monolithic foundation - two reinforced pillars are dug into the ground, connected by a channel. This method is the most economical, as it does not involve the use of a large amount of concrete. For excavation with this method, you can use the most common garden drill. The depth of the holes for the supports should be at least 2 m and 20-30 cm in diameter. Each of the holes should be located as close to the fence as possible, and connected to each other by a small trench.
- Pile screw foundation. For its installation it is not necessary to carry out land and concrete work, it does not take much time. As the name implies, such a foundation consists of piles that are driven or screwed into the ground. In order for the piles to last as long as possible, they must be coated with epoxy resin or galvanized.
Scheme of installation of sliding gates on screw piles
Gate installation
When installing the gate to the cottage with your own hands, you first need to mark up. To do this, a cord is pulled along the opening line, indicating the trajectory of the sash. Then the adjustment pads are fixed.
After installing the platforms, it is necessary to determine the extreme positions of the roller bearings. To do this, you need to step back 15 cm from the edge of the opening along the embedded element and draw a tangent for the first cart. The end position for the second trolley is calculated according to the following formula: 100 mm is subtracted from the length of the gate (with the cantilever part) along the plane of the embedded element.
Detailed installation scheme for roller doors with a wicket door
After carrying out all the calculations, you can proceed with the installation of sliding gates with your own hands, a video of this process, if necessary, can be found on the network. Using a welding machine, the adjusting platforms of the second trolley are welded, after which it is rolled into the opening and the sash is adjusted.
The sequence of actions looks like this:
- The cloth is removed from roller carts.
- Carts are removed from the adjusting platforms.
- The platforms are welded to the embedded element.
- Roller trolleys are fixed on the platforms.
- The door leaf slides onto the carts.
- The gates are closing.
- Using a wrench, fine-tuning and final adjustment of the sashes are carried out.
An example of installed sliding gates on the site
In order for the carts to be properly fastened inside the carrier profile, it is necessary to loosen the upper nuts in the places of their attachment to the platforms, and open and close the gate several times. If the sash moves freely enough, then the nuts must be tightened back. If after that the canvas moves with difficulty, then it is worth correcting the skews of the carts in a plane perpendicular to the movement of the canvas.
When the movement of the web is adjusted, you can proceed with the installation of the end roller. It is placed inside the carrier profile, fixed with fixing bolts, after which the element cover is welded to the door profile. It can also be attached with bolts, but welding in this case will be more reliable.
Installing an end roller on sliding gates
Useful advice! In winter, snow can get inside the carrier profile, making it difficult to move the sash. To prevent this from happening, a cap of the carrier profile is welded on the inside of the gate.
Do-it-yourself drawings of sliding gates also involve the installation of an upper latch with rollers. In this case, the rollers should grab the top of the canvas, and the bracket should be directed with holes towards the support post.
The design of the upper catcher with rollers
In some cases, to strengthen the canvas, it can be sheathed with a profiled metal sheet. The sheet is fastened to the canvas using self-tapping screws or rivets, the second method is more reliable. If you need to mount several sheets, then they overlap.
An important element of the gate design with your own hands (drawings, diagrams, sketches confirm this) is a trap. The bottom catcher reduces the load on the roller carriages when the gate is in the closed position. Therefore, it is mounted with a fully closed gate. A lower catcher is brought under the end roller in such a way that its supporting surface is above the level of the end roller.
The upper catcher in the closed position of the gate with its upper brackets must touch the protective corner of the leading edge of the leaf.
Installation diagram of the lower trap
Gate coloring
If desired, after installation of the structure, the gate leaves can be painted in different colors. The paint must be durable and endure all sorts of adverse natural influences. In order for the paint layer to last as long as possible, the surfaces must first be cleaned with a grinder or sandpaper, and then degreased with acetone.
After cleaning, the gates are primed. This can be done with a brush, roller or spray gun. The latter option is preferable, as it avoids irregularities and stains. After priming, a paint layer is applied. After it dries, the coloring is repeated. Different types of paint and under different weather conditions can dry from several hours to several days.
Painting will extend the life of the gate and protect it from corrosion.
Do-it-yourself drawings, photos and videos of sliding gates: selection and installation of automation
To install automatic sliding gates, you will need specialized electrical equipment. The choice of automation is a rather complicated issue, since it depends on the weight of the structure, environmental conditions and many other factors. Particular attention should be paid to the following characteristics:
- The material of the gears in the gearbox - metal are the most reliable and best tolerate adverse environmental conditions. In addition, they are characterized by durability.
- Engine power reserve - in severe frost, the load on the engine is greater than under normal conditions, therefore, the power reserve in this case should be solid.
- Switch type - a metal limit switch can act up in the cold season, so for use in harsh climates, it is better to choose a magnetic one.
Automation scheme for sliding gates: 1 - electromechanical drive, 2 - control panel, 3 - photocells on the rack, 4 - photocells, 5 - signal lamp, 6 - switch, 7 - solar panel, 8 - battery pack, 9 - multifunctional device O-View
Another important parameter when choosing automation is the weight of the sash. If it does not exceed 500 kg, then you can safely choose a drive for lightweight gates, and if it reaches 1 ton, then you need automation for weighted structures. A separate type of equipment is used for industrial gates.
Gate with your own hands. Drawings, photos and videos. Description of the self-installation process. Advantages and disadvantages of swing and sliding gates, features of their installation.
As for the popular manufacturers of automation for sliding gates, you can pay attention to the following companies:
- Came is a French manufacturer whose products are very popular in warm regions. In winter, ice can freeze on the gear rack and limit switches, so models from this company are not recommended for use in harsh winter conditions;
- Nice - high-quality automation for lightweight gates. It is relatively inexpensive, characterized by durability and wear resistance under normal operating conditions. The internal gears are made of plastic, therefore, if the permissible weight is exceeded, they can become unusable very quickly;
Automatic drive for sliding gates
- Faac - Italian automation for operation in all weather conditions. A distinctive feature is a large engine power reserve, which allows it to function even in harsh winters, as well as magnetic-type switches that prevent ice from freezing. The gears are made of steel and brass, so they boast a large margin of safety;
- An-motors is one of the most affordable electric motors of high quality. This automation is produced in Belarus, so it boasts a reasonable price.
Useful advice! When choosing automation for gates, count on the maximum load on the mechanism, as well as on the most severe weather conditions in your area.
Self-assembly of automation is quite simple, as the kit comes with installation instructions.
Sliding gates for the site can be made by hand or ordered ready-made and mounted
Overview of ready-made models of sliding gates
If you do not have the time, desire or necessary skills to make a gate with your own hands, you can pay attention to a number of ready-made models from well-known manufacturers:
Do-it-yourself sliding gates: drawings, diagrams, design sketches. Advantages and disadvantages
Like any other design, sliding gates have their advantages and disadvantages. The positives include the following:
- Safe for people, especially for small children.
- They are characterized by high strength and bearing capacity, as well as good rigidity.
- In the cold season, there is no need to clear the snow in front of the gate in order to open it.
Sliding gates for the entrance area can be made of metal, wood, corrugated board and have their own exclusive design
- Most models do not provide for the presence of a gate, i.e. you can enter through such gates only by opening them completely.
- Sliding gates take up space from the fence.
- It is quite difficult to choose the right type of guide rails, for this you need to carry out a large number of calculations.
You can talk about other advantages and disadvantages of sliding gates for a long time, but one thing is worth knowing for sure - this type of fencing is quite reliable and takes up little space, which can be a decisive factor when choosing a beautiful and functional design for a suburban area.
Do-it-yourself sliding gates: drawings, diagrams, design sketches
Do-it-yourself sliding gates: drawings, diagrams, design sketches. Types and selection of gates, installation procedure, necessary tools. Gate automation.
The versatility of sliding gates allows them to be used not only in industrial buildings, but also in residential buildings. If desired, they can be made by hand. After reading this article, you will receive recommendations on the preparation of the opening, the construction of the foundation, the frame, the drawings of the main structural elements are attached.
First you need to find out what resources will be needed to make the gate. It may be cheaper to order a ready-made design than to buy numerous tools. Although most of them are still useful in the economy. So, you need to prepare:
- shovel;
- welding machine;
- grinder;
- axe;
- building level;
- roulette;
- screwdriver;
- a hammer.
Note! Almost all the tools from the list should be available in any home. The only exception is a welding machine, but you can take it from your neighbors or, in extreme cases, buy it - such a thing will certainly not be superfluous.
Having dealt with the equipment, you can begin to calculate the cost of building materials. In this case, we will talk about gates of standard sizes with an opening of 4 m. Everything you need can be bought at hardware stores and metal depots, and if you wish, you can replace it with something that is cheaper, more expedient, more durable, etc.
- The concrete mortar for fixing the "mortgage" is mixed from cement, crushed stone and sand in a ratio of 1: 3: 3.
- Roller carriages will be installed on the "mortgage" (channel ½ of the gate width). For greater strength, reinforcement no more than 1 m long is welded to the lower part of the channel. In total, seven to eight meter sections and three at an angle (17-18 m in total) are needed.
- The door leaf measuring 2x4 m on one side will be sheathed with corrugated board. For its manufacture, you need: 180-200 self-tapping screws, 10 m² of corrugated board, a package of electrodes, 5 m of 6x6 cm pipes, 20 m of 4x2 and 6x3 cm pipes, a can of primer, a can of paint, a solvent.
Note! If a gate of a different size is planned, then all calculations must be carried out independently. You can use the online calculators that are available on the websites of many hardware stores.
The basis for the "mortgage"
The construction of sliding gates begins with the creation of the foundation for the "mortgage". As already mentioned, the length of the "mortgage" should be equal to ½ the width of the gate, in this case it is 2 m. 9-10 meter pieces of reinforcement ø1-1.4 cm are welded to this element and a hole is pulled out 1 m deep and 30 cm wide ( approximately the width of the shovel bayonet + 30 cm for the channel).
- cement, 100 kg;
- fine crushed stone, 300 kg;
- sand, 300 kg.
Ready concrete is poured in such a way that one level with the “mortgage” comes out, otherwise water will accumulate there. While the solution dries (this takes at least 7 days), all the necessary fittings are selected.
Mounting profile pipe
The upper rollers, as well as the catchers located above and below, are conveniently mounted using a 3x6 cm profile pipe. It is installed along the entire height of the column, as well as in the places where the fittings are attached. There are two ways to fix this pipe.
Fasteners are often additionally reinforced with anchors. At the same time, it is worth noting that over time, the anchors installed in the brick loosen.
Pipe concreting is more reliable, but this requires a lot of labor, which is not always advisable. The mount will look something like this: the lower rollers are installed, then the door leaf, and the upper rollers are welded on top. With regards to the lower catcher, it is already welded in fact, focusing on the line along which the canvas approaches the pole at the opposite end.
"Embedded" are welded to the pipe, while using small corner profiles. In the future, "mortgages" are painted in the color of the door leaf.
Note! Without assembling the "mortgages", extremely accurate removal of the reinforcing bars to the catcher and rollers will be required, which in itself is quite difficult. Or you will have to fix it with anchors, which, as mentioned earlier, is very unreliable.
Hardware selection
After preparing the foundation and the "mortgage", all the necessary components are selected. Accessories include:
- guide rail 5-7 m long;
- plugs;
- a pair of roller carriages;
- grips;
- end and top rollers.
Note! It is better to buy all these components, because for their independent production, special equipment and considerable knowledge in the field of technology are required. As a result, home-made fittings will cost more than store-bought.
First you need to determine the length of the rail. It should be 1.5 times the width of the opening. A product of 1.3 widths is taken in two cases:
- if the weight of the gate is insignificant (less than 250 kg);
- if there is not enough space to open.
All accessories are usually designed for a specific weight - about 500-800 kg. If the canvas is sheathed with corrugated board, then fittings should be selected for a weight of 350-400 kg. But if the material used for sheathing weighs a lot, then it is better to opt for 800 kg.
The canvas will "ride" on rollers, metal or plastic. With proper operation, both options will last a long time, but it is still preferable to choose plastic ones - they make less noise when opening / closing the gate.
When buying, you should pay attention to the presence of the upper grip and rubber plugs.
Note! If all the components are made carefully and are sold in original packaging, then the manufacturer is serious and uses only high-quality equipment. You should not buy parts that are sold in plastic bags or have uneven edges - this is a clear sign of "handicraft" production, and in case of any problems, there will simply be no one to make a claim.
Frame construction
Step 1. First you need to prepare a place for assembly. Its dimensions should be larger than the dimensions of the future design.
Step 2. Pipes are prepared (for the frame you need to take 5x5x0.2 cm), cleaned of scale or rust, after which they are treated with gasoline and coated with a primer. For priming, you can use a spray gun (the work will be done faster) or a regular brush (the primer layer will be thicker).
Step 3. After the pipes have dried, the frame is welded. It is important that there are no holes left at the joints where water could penetrate.
Step 4. An internal frame is being prepared, which is necessary for fixing the corrugated board. A smaller pipe 4x2x0.2 cm is placed on a larger one - 5x5x0.2 cm:
- in the middle, if two-sided sheathing is planned;
- closer to the edge, if only one surface is sheathed, there will be room for corrugated board.
Pipes are welded in a checkerboard pattern with a step of 40 cm - so they will not “lead” at high temperatures.
Step 5 Welding points are processed with a grinder and covered with a primer layer.
Step 7. After the paint has completely dried, the frame is sheathed. The corrugated board is fixed with self-tapping screws on the inner frame.
Video - Gate installation
Step 1. Roller carriages are installed on the "mortgage", and gates are already placed on them (the rollers are threaded into the guide). Further, using the building level, the verticality of the structure is checked and, if everything is fine, the carriages are welded to the channel.
Many use bolts for such fastening, since there are suitable holes in the carriages. But you don’t need to do this, because measuring and making holes in the “mortgage” will take a lot of time and effort. Moreover, if even a millimeter error is found, then you will have to cut off the bolts and repeat the procedure again.
Welding is more suitable, because it provides a field for maneuvers - if necessary, it can always be cut off and the carriage moved. Welding is no less reliable than bolts - with it, the gate will stand for decades.
Step 2. Mortgages for other components are prepared from 6x3 cm pipes. In appropriate places, reinforcement bars are removed from the pillars, to which catchers with rollers must be fixed.
Step 3. The end of the guide is equipped with a roller with special clamps, after which it is closed on both sides with rubber plugs. The location of all elements is carefully measured, then roller carriages are welded.
Video - Sliding gates
Automation
Note! Automation can only be installed if the gate moves easily and without any jumps.
The installation technology for gate automation is described using the example of the Chinese model PS-IZ, which has proven itself very positively. The automation kit will consist of:
- electric drive;
- signal light;
- gear rack;
- remote control;
- photocells.
For installation you will need the following equipment:
- welding;
- drill;
- drills for metal.
The drive will be powered by a cable 0.2x0.2 cm, and for photocells 0.4x0.07 cm and 0.2x0.05 cm will be required. A cable with a cross section of 0.2x0.07 cm is connected to the signal light. channel, as carriages.
Step 1. First, the installation location of the drive is selected. For this, a base is taken (it should be included), the drive itself is placed on it. The base is placed between the carriages and the working position is recreated - a gear rack is installed on the gear of the electric drive. The location of the channel is adjusted so that the rack is in the center of the gear and is fixed on the outer frame (but only on the profile pipe).
Step 2. The installation site is marked, after which the base is placed and scalded there.
Note! Quite often, the drive has to be raised by two to three centimeters. In this case, the remains of the profile pipe are welded to the "mortgage", and the base is already attached to them.
After that, the actuator is screwed to the base.
Step 4. Limit switches are screwed to the rail. They are mechanical and magnetic (the latter are more reliable).
Step 5. The drive is connected according to the manufacturer's instructions, after which it is tested. If everything is normal, the Photo-GND jumper is removed and photocells are installed.
Note! One element gives a light signal, and the other receives it. In the presence of a signal, the system functions normally, but if any obstacle arises in the path of the beam (a car, an animal, a child, etc.), then the canvas immediately begins to move back.
Step 6. A signal lamp is attached to the left side of the structure with self-tapping screws. This is optional, but for safety reasons, it is still better to put a lamp. To do this, you need a cable with a cross section of 0.2x0.07 cm. The cable is soldered to the Light and AC-N contacts on the board.
Actually, after thisdo-it-yourself sliding gate drawingsand instructions for the manufacture of which are given in this article, you can already use. For a more detailed acquaintance with the nuances of installation, watch the thematic video.
Video - Homemade sliding gates
Retractable (sliding, sliding) gates are a more technologically advanced alternative to swing gates. Making gates with a sliding mechanism is more difficult than swing gates, but ease of use and appearance will point to a modern private house.
Before you figure out how to make sliding gates from corrugated board, you need to consider what types of devices are and trace the evolution of their formation.
Types and types of sliding gates
The device and design features of the mechanisms and methods of installation.
Opening method:
- sliding gate- consist of two wings that move off in opposite directions. Visually similar to swing gates and combine the advantages of swing and sliding gates;
- sliding gates(self-supporting) - consist of one canvas (rarely two) that move off in one direction.
The main advantage of sliding gates is that they do not require a lot of free space for operation. Among the advantages - the ability to connect automation, a more modern look, ease of sliding even in the presence of snow.
According to the degree of mechanization:
- manual rollback(mechanical gate opening). It is absolutely easy to move the sliding gate leaf. If you are going to make a sliding gate with your own hands, many prefer manual gate rollback;
- automatic rollback. When designing and installing gates, the need for electricity supply and installation of additional mechanisms is taken into account. Automation for sliding gates consists of: remote control, electric drive, electric cable, photocells, signal lamp.
Guide type:
- hanging type. In this case, the guide is installed from above, which limits the height of the gate;
- console type. Sliding gates of this type are characterized by the installation of a guide frame at the bottom of the structure.
The simplest are gates mounted on a rail (fig. on the left). The option is simple, but not very convenient, because. the bottom rail needs constant care. Otherwise, debris caught in the sled will cause the rollers to come off and eventually damage the mechanism. A more modern version of the device is a sliding gate with a floating rail (fig. on the right).
It is about how to make sliding gates from corrugated board on floating rails that will be discussed in the article.
Do-it-yourself sliding gates from corrugated board
Step-by-step instructions for making sliding gates for summer cottages and private houses.
Stage 1 - project of sliding gates from corrugated board
The design of sliding gates is complex, which means that visualization is necessary, i.e. you need to make a sketch or drawing.
Sketch of sliding gates from corrugated board
A sketch is a picture showing the appearance of the gate, with the designation of the main elements, but without drawing dimensions. Design begins with a sketch drawing.
The scheme of sliding gates from corrugated board
A schematic drawing is a cross between a sketch and a drawing, i.e. a picture that gives an idea of the gate and allows you to apply dimensions. The disadvantage of the scheme is that the proportions are not maintained. However, for those who do not have drawing skills, the sliding gate scheme will be a reliable help.
Drawing of sliding gates from corrugated board
The drawing is mandatory provided by construction teams when ordering a service - turnkey installation. A drawing is a document in which the key parameters of the future gate are recorded: the width of the opening, the width of the gate and the counterweight, the dimensions and location of the gate, the number of leaves, the specifics of opening, additional elements, as well as all dimensions.
Important. A gate made of corrugated board, mounted in the gate leaf, is thought out at the stage of project development.
Stage 2 - calculation of sliding gates from corrugated board
For the normal functioning of sliding gates, it is necessary to correctly calculate the parameters of their main elements:
Gate weight
The mass of sliding gates has a direct effect on all load-bearing elements. The total mass consists of the weight of the frame, the counterweight (shank), the weight of the skin, the weight of the decorative elements. If it is planned to manufacture a gate from corrugated board with an internal wicket, the weight of the frame and the material of the wicket is taken into account. The weight of locks and automation, although not so significant, should not be neglected in the calculations either.
It is possible to reduce the weight of the gate leaf by arranging two wings. Those. instead of retractable, make sliding gates.
For example, the weight of a 4-meter gate, welded from a pipe with a section of 60x20, sheathed with corrugated board on one side, is about 200 kg.
Pillars for sliding gates
For support poles, a large-section metal pipe is suitable.
Console length (guide rail or beam)
The length is determined by the width of the opening plus ½ of the length of the counterweight (shank). It is not recommended to decrease this parameter, because the recoil mechanism wears out quickly. With a door width of 4,000 mm. the length of the console will be 6,000 mm. Thus, the side of the fence on which the door leaf will enter must be longer than 6,000 mm.
If the fence is shorter, two gate leaves should be made with two counterweights and automation kits. This increases the cost of the sliding gate, but will allow it to "fit" in the given dimensions (the length of the fence next to the gate). Otherwise, you need to install .
A counterweight of ¼ of the door width is only possible when using the console roller guides.
Advice. If the entrance to the courtyard is located on a narrow street, it is advisable to make the opening and the gate wider to provide free room for maneuver.
Influence of the weight of sliding gates on the parameters of the guide rail (console)
accessories
The heavier the gate - the stronger you need to purchase accessories. This will avoid its deformation and distortion of the gate during operation.
Automation
The more massive the leaf leaf, the more powerful you need to take the automation. In turn, automation for sliding gates is selected taking into account the power reserve. Therefore, when buying, you need to add 100 kg to the weight of the gate.
Influence of the weight of sliding gates on the parameters of the electric drive (power)
Stage 3 - materials and tools
We will give data on the amount of building material for the manufacture of sliding gates from a profiled sheet measuring 4,000 x 2,000 mm.
Estimate for the consumption of materials and funds for the installation of sliding gates
| Material | Quantity | Price |
|---|---|---|
| Decking* | 4 sheets of 2 m.p. about 10 sq.m. |
150-350 rub. per sq.m. |
| Pipe 100x100, 4 mm thick. | 2 | 560 rub/m.p. |
| Pipe 60x30, 2 mm thick. | 2 m.p. - 2 pcs. 3.5 m.p. - 1 PC. 4 m.p. - 1 PC. 6 m.p. - 1 PC. |
153 rub/m.p. |
| Pipe 60x20, 2 mm thick. | Depending on the location of the reinforcing jumpers | 147 rub/m.p. |
| Metal sheet, 2 mm. To reinforce the frame. Installed in case of strong wind load. |
Scarves - 4 pieces 150 | 764.80 rub/sq.m. |
| For arranging a flashing 150x150 | 2 pcs. | |
| Channel, length 2-3 m.p. For installation on a shank foundation |
1 PC. | 300 rub/m.p. |
| Self-tapping screws / rivets | 80 pcs/130 pcs | 1.25 rubles / piece 0.3 rub/piece |
| Paint for corrugated board | 1 PC. | 240 rubles / 1 kg. |
| Anticorrosive primer: GF-021 LAKRA Phosphosoil Zinconol |
1 PC. | 140 rubles/kg. 257 rubles/kg. 463 rubles/kg. |
| Frame paint | 1 PC. | |
| Cement M 400 | 1 PC. | 200 rubles / 50 kg. |
| Sand | 85 rubles / 50 kg. | |
| Fittings, Ø 12 | 20 m.p. | 41 rub./m.p. |
| Pens | Required if drive is not used | |
| Hidden hinges | ||
| Locks | ||
| Sliding gate mechanism | 1 PC. for rolling 2 pcs. for sliding gates |
|
| Rolltec MICRO | opening width 3 000 Sash weight up to 350 kg. |
7530 rub. |
| Alutech | opening width 4 000 Sash weight up to 450 kg. |
150 |
| Came | opening width 4 500 Sash weight up to 700 kg. |
29330 rub. |
| Came | opening width 4 500 Sash weight up to 800 kg. |
33980 rub. |
| Alutech automation | 1 PC. for rolling 2 pcs. for sliding |
25000 rub. |
* Decking. The height is equal to the height of the sash, the width depends on the type. For wall corrugated board, the working width is from 1000 to 1190 mm. For a gate 4 m wide, you will need 4 sheets 2 m high. It is preferable to take a painted profiled sheet. Its service life is much longer and the appearance is more beautiful.
Separately, we will dwell on what elements the sliding gate mechanism includes. In general terms, these are accessories and automation.
Sliding gate fittings are a set (set) of elements that ensure the functioning of the gate leaf.
Sliding gate beam (console or guide rail)
Sold in size 6, 7, 8 m.p. The guide beam is welded to the frame tube from below. Guide rollers are placed inside the console, which are responsible for the movement of the gate leaf.
Advice. When buying a console, ask about the warranty and pay attention to the quality of the metal, its thickness, geometry. Otherwise, the rail will bend and the gate leaf will jam. Masters warn if in the section of the cantilever beam for sliding gates a square is a fake. The factory console has a complex geometric shape.
Rollers for sliding gates (roller carriages)
Mounted on the top and bottom of the frame. The upper roller keeps the sash in a horizontal position and prevents the leaf from swinging. Lower support - mounted at the end of the console (beam). The support rollers are responsible for holding the sash in the closed position. And also, for preventing its sagging and spontaneous opening. The rollers are rigidly fixed on the foundation.
Advice. Good quality plastic shell rollers are more durable. In addition, they muffle the rumble when the gate moves, and protect the base of the roller from damage.
High-quality material for rollers is indelible plastic or chrome vanadium steel. But to a greater extent, the quality is influenced by the manufacturer.
Sliding gate catcher (top and bottom catcher)
Catchers accept the gate frame when closing. Also designed to keep the sash from sagging.
End caps for guide rail
Plastic plugs are installed at opposite ends of the console.
Sliding gate automation
It is selected based on the technical characteristics indicated by the manufacturer. Includes a drive, which can be of several types:
- belt drive- relatively cheap, but the belt wears out quickly, it can burst from temperature changes;
- chain drive- a little more expensive, but the chain is prone to sagging and requires care;
- gear drive- the most reliable. The toothed rack guarantees that the gate will not be opened from the outside, but at the same time, it will not open if the power goes out. Automation with gear drive can be installed on gates with wicket doors made of corrugated board.
Advice. Masters recommend buying a mechanism for sliding gates in the kit. So it is easier to choose a complete set and take into account its bearing capacity. Good reviews about such manufacturers: CAME (Italy), Rolling-Center (Italy), DOORHAN (Russia), ROLTEK (Russia).
Stage 4 - installation of sliding gates from corrugated board
Do-it-yourself installation of sliding (sliding) type gates without automation
Foundation for the gate
The foundation is poured under the liner.
A 200 mm channel is laid close to the post, and a 160 mm channel is laid with an indent of 50 mm from the support post.
Installation of mortgages in pillars is carried out “flush” with brickwork (lining of supporting pillars).
How to make a foundation for a sliding gate
To properly fill the base, you need to perform a number of actions:
- prepare the soil (remove the top layer of soil);
- dig a trench. Depth and width 500 mm, the length of the recess is ½ the width of the gate opening. For a sash with a width of 4 r.m. need a trench 2 meters long;
- drill two holes that are designed to install support pillars. Drilling depth - 1/3 of the length of the pipe, usually 1300-500 mm. The width of the hole depends on the reinforcement. It is recommended that the hole diameter be 2.5 times the pipe diameter/section. The result of earthworks will be a U-shaped recess;
- make a sand-gravel pillow in the recesses (at the bottom of the pits for pillars). Backfill height 50-100 mm;
- pour concrete mortar;
- along the bottom of the trench (between the supporting pillars), equip a sand and gravel cushion;
- tie and lay reinforcement;
- concrete.
There is a second option for building a foundation for sliding gates - using a channel. This is the so-called foundation mortgage.
The method also involves digging trenches and vertical holes. But in this case, in addition to the supporting pillars, reinforcement is laid in the holes, welded to the channel, which will serve as the foundation, and the entire structure is concreted from above.
Advice.
The level of pouring concrete must match the level of the channel. Otherwise, water will accumulate in this place. The material was prepared for the site www.site
While the concrete will harden, you can begin to manufacture the frame.
Installation of sliding gates - frame (leaf frame)
By configuration, the frame is a one-sided trapezoid.
How to weld a frame (frame) for sliding gates
- cut metal blanks for welding the sliding gate frame. Please note that workpieces forming a right angle are welded at an angle of 45 °. Perpendicular - at an angle of 90 °. So, they need to be cut accordingly.
Advice. For beginners who do not have much experience in welding, the craftsmen are advised to cut at an angle only those workpieces that will be located on top of the frame. This will prevent water from entering the frame frame. The lower ones can be welded at a right angle.
- clean iron blanks from rust, dirt, etc.;
- weld together all the elements according to the drawing. At the same time, it is necessary to ensure that welding is carried out with “pokes”, and a continuous weld is not used (the structure can lead from it). In addition, with the spot welding method, it is easier to dismantle the frame for repair or reconstruction (“points” are cut off by a grinder).
Only after there is no doubt about the accuracy of the dimensions and geometry of the structure, can final welding be performed with a continuous seam;
- workpieces and welding spots are ground;
- anti-corrosion primer treatment.
If necessary, the frame is additionally (at the welding stage) reinforced with longitudinal / perpendicular crossbars or a scarf - a steel sheet welded at the corners of the structure.
Advice. The reinforcement of the triangle that is formed on one side of the frame (shank) occurs by installing a stiffener in such a way that the right angle is divided in half.
Installation of a beam for sliding gates
The cantilever (guide) beam is welded to the bottom of the frame. Rubber plugs are installed on its edges. Without plugs, debris will enter the console, which will make it difficult for the sash to move along the guide rollers.
Installation of fittings for sliding gates
- a flashing is attached to the support post - a corner of 150x150 mm or a channel;
- traps (upper and lower) are attached to the flashing;
- on the foundation mortgage (installed channel), rollers (holding carriages) are mounted. The rollers are installed as far apart as possible;
- a console is put on the carriage;
- traps are finally adjusted;
- installation of accessories and / or automation (drive) is carried out.
Installation of corrugated board
Sheathing of the gate with a profiled sheet is carried out in accordance with the installation technology.