What cosmetic procedures will protect against photoaging of the skin. What is photoaging Skin photoaging

Photoaging of the skin is a process of permanent damage to the skin by the sun's rays.

The process of photoaging of the skin is characterized by a number of clinical, histological and biochemical changes, which, in contrast to age-related fading of the skin, have a special nature.

In recent years, there has been significant progress in studying the mechanism of photodamage. This allows us to hope that in the near future new measures can be developed to protect the skin from the harmful effects of sunlight and new therapeutic methods for restoring damaged skin.

The term "photoaging" is used to describe certain clinical, histological and functional signs of chronic photodamage of the skin caused by sunlight. There are a number of synonyms for this process, which are also used when discussing this topic: "heliodermatitis", "actinic dermatosis" and "premature aging of the skin."

It must be remembered that photoaging usually occurs in parallel with signs of age-related aging. However, there are special symptoms that are found almost exclusively in the first case and are not found in the second. This makes it possible to transfer this condition into a separate nosological form, which is associated with a special pathogenetic mechanism for the development of photodamage.

Increasing life expectancy, popularizing healthy lifestyles, new concepts of relaxation, excessive tanning under the sun and in tanning salons - all this has led to a revitalization of the global market for products that protect us from the harmful effects of UV radiation. At the same time, a decrease in the number of people with obvious signs of photoaging is not expected at all. Moreover, there are studies that suggest that this group will only grow.

The clinical signs of photoaging have already been described quite fully, but only recently has light been shed on the molecular mechanisms responsible for macro- and microscopic tissue damage. The role of some factors of transmission (transcription) of cellular information in the pathogenesis of photoaging was demonstrated, and it was also found that mitochondrial DNA mutation plays an important role in the development of this pathology.

Analysis of pathophysiological mechanisms provides prerequisites for evaluating the effectiveness of photoprotective and rejuvenating agents and can help develop new strategies for protecting and restoring photodamaged skin.

Clinical picture of skin photoaging

There are a number of features that allow you to easily separate young and aging skin. So six main criteria were identified by which healthy skin can be determined:

• elasticity,
• uniform color,
• absence of clinical signs of disease or injury,
• normal texture (no defects, scars, wrinkles),
• normal humidity (no feeling of dryness),
• high resistance to infection and damaging factors.

Aging, but not exposed to prolonged exposure to sunlight, the skin is usually dry, thin, has a large number of wrinkles and the phenomenon of seborrheic keratosis. With photoaging, as a rule, these signs are accentuated and exaggerated.

Signs of photodamage can be observed even before the onset of symptoms of age-related skin aging, but only in open areas exposed to direct sunlight - the neck, décolleté, face, forearm and hands. At the same time, there is an increase in wrinkle formation, a decrease in elasticity, an increase in trauma and slow wound healing. Most of these clinical manifestations are due to dermal disorders. And the most striking epidermal changes are lentigo (violation of normal skin color) and diffuse hyperpigmentation.

There are certain risk factors, according to which women in menopause with skin phototype I-II are predisposed to photoaging. No relationship was found with oral contraceptive use or smoking. And yet it should be recalled: it has been reliably established that smoking provokes the formation of wrinkles and worsens skin color - this, of course, accelerates the processes of chronological aging. Among men, people with initially swarthy and dark skin are more prone to photoaging, oddly enough.

Histological signs of skin photoaging

Photodamage is characterized by a number of quantitative and qualitative features.

In the stratum corneum of the epidermis, signs of hyperkeratosis can be found, but often the thickness of the epidermis remains unchanged. Changes in the epidermis can also range from hypertrophy to atrophy. The basement membrane is thickened, reflecting possible damage to the basal keratinocytes. At the same time, an uneven distribution of melanocyte processes of various sizes, accumulation of pigment and the number of processes of melanocytes is noted along the basement membrane.

There is a relationship between the severity of damage and the strength-time of exposure to UV radiation. In other words, the formation of a vertical damage gradient is noted. The most striking histological sign of this dependence is the destruction of elastin fibers, while damaged fibers can occupy a different part of the dermis. Another sign of photopathology in the dermis is the replacement of normal collagen fibers with collagen with clear damaged areas. This phenomenon is called "basophilic collagen degeneration".

More severe manifestations of photodamage are the expansion of areas of deposition of glucose-minoglycans (a complex responsible for the strength of cell membranes) and fragmented elastin fibers, as well as dermal extracellular proteins - elastin and collagen.

Photobiology of skin aging

Depending on the wavelength, the sun's rays of the ultraviolet spectrum interact with different skin cells located at different depths. Ultraviolet rays with a short wavelength (part B, 280-320 nm) are mainly absorbed by the epidermis, where damage to keratipocytes is mainly observed. Longer wavelengths (part A, 320-400 nm) penetrate deeper and can interact with both epidermal cells and dermal fibroblasts. Melanin absorbs ultraviolet light and thus protects cells from damaging effects. However, that part of the spectrum that overcomes this barrier can have a negative effect on tissues in various ways.

The rays of the UV A spectrum act mainly indirectly, contributing to the production of free oxygen radicals. They, in turn, activate lipid peroxidation, transcription factors and can lead to breaks in DNA strands.

At the same time, UVB, which is also capable of producing free forms of oxygen to some extent, mainly has a direct damaging effect on DNA through the direct activation of special substances - transcription factors. These factors trigger the production of metalloproteinases in the cell - enzymes with high proteolytic (cleaving) activity in relation to the building proteins of the cell.

Skin photoaging factors

One of the most pronounced manifestations of photoaging skin is a decrease in its elasticity and firmness. Studying the biochemistry of photoaging, Japanese authors found that during lipid redox reactions, among other substances, acrolein and 4-hydroxy-2-nonenal (HNE) are formed. Antibodies produced against these substances are obviously detrimental to fibrin fibers, which - as studies show - are significantly impaired. To a much greater extent, these phenomena were expressed in areas of the face and body exposed to solar exposure.

Thus, it is concluded that the rate of lipid redox reactions increased by exposure to the sun is an additional risk factor for the formation of photoaging skin syndrome. This also proves the effectiveness of antioxidants, the use of which is often justified in skin involutional processes.

A group of German researchers found out the role of another active biological agent. This is the so-called fibulin-2, an extracellular protein that can influence the normal organization of elastin fibers. In other words, the more fibulin-2 in the dermal layer, the more the correct structure of elastin suffers.

Although fibulin-2 was discovered quite a long time ago, it was not given much importance in the context of skin photoaging, since its content in normal and photodamaged skin is approximately the same. However, it has now been proven that increased solar exposure significantly inhibits the processes of the natural breakdown of fibulin-2, thereby enhancing the disorganization of elastin.

The vascular parameters of the skin in front of the auricle (the most photovulnerable) and the skin behind it (photoprotected) were compared. It was found that photodamaged skin has depression of the endothelium of small vessels, which inevitably leads to impaired microcirculation. This provokes the formation of a new vascular pattern, which is mainly manifested by abnormal skin vascular formations (microangioami, telangiectasia, etc.).

In addition, a violation of the normal vascularization of the dermal layer has an extremely negative effect on the state of elastin, which begins to lose its normal parameters, thickening and defragmenting.

One of the papers provides very interesting information about the effect of vitamin D on skin protection factors during photoaggression. As is known, vitamin D is a physiological regulator of proliferation ("multiplication") and differentiation of skin cells, including keratinocytes, fibroblasts and adipocytes.

The work is based on experiments on white mice. One group included mice that had their hair shaved off their backs and were exposed to solar irradiation for 20 weeks 5 times a day (the duration of each session is not indicated in the publication).

After the control time, the manifestations of skin fading were clearly visible, expressed in the form of an enhanced wrinkled pattern. Histological and biochemical studies have shown the almost complete disappearance of adipocytes, inhibition of the synthesis of collagen, hyaluronic acid and chondroitin, which are responsible for the synthesis of fibroblasts. Against this background, signs of total intradermal fibrosis (excessive growth of connective tissue) were revealed.

Mice from the other group were treated with a certain type of vitamin D (1.25 (OHJ2D3)) on shaved skin before photoirradiation. Subsequent histological examination showed a fundamentally different morphological picture: adipocytes and fibroblasts were preserved in the absence of signs of fibrosis.

New evidence of the vulnerability and deformation of collagen during excessive insolation was published in the American journal The American Journal of Pathology. It has been proven that in photodamaged skin, the synthesis of procollagen types 1 and 3, substances necessary for the formation of normal collagen fibers, is significantly impaired. With this disorder, there may also be a noticeable acceleration of the breakdown of metalloproteinase enzymes, which also play a significant role in the formation of collagen and maintaining tone in it.

To study these phenomena, the skin of open (face, forearms) and closed areas of the body was examined. A decrease in the content of proteinases by 57-65% was found in areas of the skin exposed to excessive insolation. At the same time (which, by the way, contradicts the data of other researchers), the quantitative and qualitative composition of fibroblasts in areas of photodamaged skin did not differ significantly from the same indicators in photoprotected skin. However, a violation of the synthesis of procollagen leads to unambiguous changes in the collagen itself. In photodamaged skin, collagen fibers were not ordered, but randomly, and at the same time they were shorter, thinner, and more brittle. In addition, collagen in these areas of the skin had a pronounced tendency to degrade.

From this work, it is concluded that when using drugs (meaning drugs, for the creation of which there are all theoretical and practical prerequisites) that can affect the normal function of procollagen, the clinical manifestations of skin photoaging can be significantly smoothed out.

A non-invasive comparative study of photodamaged and photointact skin was carried out by Kikuchi-Numagami K, Suetake T et al., 2000. For this, the forearms of golfers were studied. Golfers were a convenient group for the study, since during the game one hand is in a long glove, and the other is without, which leads to a fundamental difference in the dose of insolation.

Investigated showed such as the level of skin hydration, the function of the water barrier of the stratum corneum and color indicators - the intensity and uniformity of tanning. A significant decrease in skin surface hydration in exposed areas was found with unchanged transepidermal moisture loss and normal functioning of the stratum corneum water barrier. This proves that the morphological changes in photodamaged skin are not so much mechanical as cellular and intracellular in nature.

The work of the Romanian doctors Taranu T, Taranu T (1998) focuses on the fact that structural and functional changes in the skin under the influence of solar radiation (dermatoheliosis) are aggravated after fifty years, when general involutional changes begin. At the same time, disturbances in the differentiation of keratinocytes begin. All these factors, except for the deterioration of the general condition of the skin, are also fraught with oncological consequences, primarily squamous cell skin cancer.

Against this background, the effect of vitamin A (retinol) on cell growth and division is proven. The use of retinoids (a combination of vitamin A and retinoic acid) can significantly reduce the risk of skin problems, both aesthetic and oncological. Moreover, having good permeability, these substances are able to act not only on the epidermis, but also on the dermis itself and even subdermal layers. In addition to the preventive effect, retipoids, having a proliferative effect, can be quite effective in the treatment of cancer of the epithelial layer.

Toyoda M and Morohaski M. (1998) also focused their attention on the epidermal layer, having studied epidermal melanocytes with a modern cytomorphometric method. Comparing melanocytes of photodamaged and photoprotected skin of the same person under electron microscopy, they revealed their characteristic changes during photodamage - a significant increase in their number, deformation of the cell nucleus, etc.

Degenerative changes in keratinocytes have also been proven. These data show the uniqueness of changes during photoaging at the cellular level of the epidermal layer, after which changes in the deeper layers begin, as already mentioned above.

In conclusion of the review, it makes sense to present the data of the most important conceptual work Bergfeld WF (1999), which assesses the "reserve" of female skin and evaluates its gradual changes in relation to age and various other factors.

The paper emphasizes that throughout life, facial skin needs cosmetic and/or dermatological care to correct conditions such as acne, rosacea, photodamage, etc. It is very important for the doctor and patient to quickly establish a diagnosis and choose the best solution regarding prevention, treatment and subsequent care.

Women are often at a disadvantage compared to men. So, in the latter, acne problems, as a rule, are resolved by the age of 25). In women, acne can appear up to the age of 40, and often longer. As a rule, acne requires serious drug therapy, both local and general, including retinoids, antibiotics, benzene peroxide, hormones. Rosacea also affects women more often (especially during menopause) and can lead to such complications as telangiectasias, as well as chronic blepharitis and conjunctivitis. This also requires fairly intensive therapeutic measures; for example, the use of antibiotics (metronidazole, tetracycline, clarithromycin, doxycilin, etc.) is usually quite effective.

Why does the author of this work pay so much attention to past pathological skin conditions in the context of photoaging? The fact is that, coupled with the appropriate treatment, they make the skin of a woman's face more vulnerable to ultraviolet radiation, leading to photodamage syndrome. In addition to causing a range of histological, physiological, and clinical changes, photodamage to the skin also increases the risk of skin cancer. Photoaging can be expressed to a much lesser extent with the avoidance of direct sunlight and the proper use of sunscreens. It is all the more annoying that most women neglect such simple ways to protect themselves.

In the post-industrial era, when millions of people took their places at factory machines, pale skin became a symbol of hard monotonous work in enclosed spaces where the sun's rays did not enter. And tanned, bronze skin has become a symbol of financial well-being, an elite lifestyle and a new concept of relaxation. However, the last decades have been marked not only by the popularity of tanning, but also by the problems that accompany it: premature skin aging and an increase in the number of cancers.

What is photoaging?

Photoaging is damage to the skin by ultraviolet radiation, which leads to premature aging of the skin. Photoaging has a special nature and is radically different from chronoaging (natural aging). Prolonged exposure to ultraviolet radiation can cause serious damage to the skin.

Photoaging is skin damage caused by UV radiation.

Penetrating deep into the skin, UV radiation contributes to the oxidation of the body and the formation of free radicals, damage to collagen and elastin molecules, and mutations in DNA cells. As a result, elastic collagen with an ordered structure turns into an accumulation of amorphous protein with a disturbed structure. It can be said that photoaging goes hand in hand with chronoaging, but there are symptoms that are observed in the first case and are absent in the second.

Every year more and more people abusing sunburn get photodamaged skin, and as a result they are diagnosed with photoaging of the skin. The mechanism that triggers photoaging of the skin can start even at 20 years old, and symptoms of photoaging are observed even in 25-year-old people. And if at the age of 25 the skin regenerates quickly enough, then with age the risk of irreversible consequences is much higher. Over time, photodamage accumulates and can manifest itself in the most serious way.

Photoaging of the skin: why does it happen?

What causes photoaging? Everyone knows that the sun is the source of life on earth. It gives us heat, light and energy for the life of all living organisms. At the same time, an excess of ultraviolet radiation can cause a number of serious changes in the structure of the skin.

Let's start with the fact that sunburn is the skin's response to ultraviolet light. Skin cells produce a dark pigment only for the purpose of protection from subsequent radiation. Therefore, the phrase "healthy tan" is an oxymoron that does not make sense. There can be no "healthy" tan. For the reason that it is a structural damage to the skin.

There are three types of radiation:

• UV-A radiation;
• UV-B radiation;
• UV-C radiation.

UV-C radiation does not reach the earth's surface due to the ozone layer.

UVB radiation affects the surface layer of our skin, causing redness, burns and heatstroke. Previously, it was thought that it was UV-B radiation that caused more dangerous damage to the skin, since it was it that could cause burns. But it turned out that this is not so at all. Damaged cells are removed along with burnt skin flaps.

Such damage does not have the ability to affect the structure of cells. However, high doses of UV-B radiation can cause skin cancer and its especially dangerous form - melanoma. Especially if new young skin, formed after burns, is exposed to the sun's rays.

UV-A radiation is considered more dangerous. It penetrates into the deep layers of the skin, where it causes the destruction of collagen and elastin and affects DNA cells, causing them to mutate. High doses of UV-A cause photoaging through oxidative stress in the skin. Long-term accumulation of exposure to UV-A radiation plays a major role in the development of non-melanoma skin cancers.

Photoaging: mechanism of action

How does it happen and what is destroyed in the process of photoaging? The symptoms of photoaging are well known and have been described for a long time, but the processes occurring at the molecular level have become known only recently.

UV radiation primarily damages proteins and nucleic acids, promotes the formation of free radicals and reactive oxygen species, triggers oxidative degradation of lipids, which damages the protective hydrolipidic film of the epidermis and cell membranes. In response to the action of UV radiation, the cells of the stratum corneum produce inflammatory cytokines (low molecular weight proteins).

Cytokines cause damage to the stratum corneum, resulting in a thickening of the epidermis. In addition, this phenomenon has a chaotic, disordered character, followed by a violation of the process of cell differentiation. Damage occurs not only in the epidermis, but also in the dermis: metalloproteinase enzymes are activated, which contribute to the destruction of the extracellular matrix.

As a result, the number of elastic fibers decreases, destruction and changes in their structure occur. UV radiation also has a detrimental effect on the vascular system of the skin, causing damage to the capillaries.

In other words, exposure to UV radiation contributes to skin aging through a combination of several factors.

First, there is rapid cell growth in the top layer of the skin caused by UV radiation. This results in thickening of the epidermis.

Secondly, UV radiation, penetrating into the deep layers of the skin, damages the structure of connective tissue molecules. As a result, the skin loses firmness and elasticity.

Thirdly, UV radiation leads to excess production of melanin, which makes it possible for the appearance of local pigment spots, liver spots and dark areas of the skin.

Fourth, the loss of moisture makes the skin dry, sluggish and flabby. Such skin easily becomes wrinkled, becomes rough and rough.

Skin photoaging symptoms

Even without being a specialist, you can distinguish healthy young skin from fading. To do this, it is enough to look at a person just once.

The effect of UV radiation on skin aging

Aging skin has the following characteristics:

• sagging and loss of elasticity;
• abundant pigmentation with local "liver" spots;
• the presence of wrinkles, irregularities, roughness;
• severe dryness and thinning;
• violation of the structure of the epidermis,
• presence of inflammation and infection.

However, young skin exposed to prolonged sun exposure does not show the symptoms of aging skin, but appears dry, thin, pigmented, and wrinkled. All these signs are pronounced.

In this case, photodamage appears earlier than age-related signs of aging, but various dermal disorders are observed: a decrease in elasticity and firmness, active formation of lentigo, uneven pigmentation, and chloasma.

Naturally aging skin without photodamage appears dry, wrinkled, thinned, and has signs of the disease of the elderly, seborrheic keratosis (basal cell papilloma).

Who is at risk?

• First of all, the risk group includes owners of very fair skin (Celtic type according to Fitzpatrick). Photodamages on such skin appear instantly. Light skin does not produce melanin, a natural UV protection. Such skin should be strongly protected from the harmful effects of sunlight.
• A certain risk group includes women during the period of hormonal changes in the body: pregnancy, lactation, menopause or other hormonal disorders. Female hormones are very closely related to the production of melanocytes (skin cells that produce the pigment melanin). Hormonal imbalance increases the sensitivity of the skin to ultraviolet radiation. So, on the faces of pregnant women, hormonal chloasma can be observed, and in women who have entered the menopause, lentigo is actively formed on the skin.

Owners of dark skin should also be on the alert. After all, the absence of burns does not mean that there are no serious cell damage in the deep layers of the skin, where UV-A rays penetrate.

It is easier to prevent than to cure

There are a number of diseases that cannot be prevented, but, fortunately, photoaging is not one of them. It can be prevented and successfully treated. The first step towards the implementation of the above postulates is the prevention of photoaging. Prevention of photoaging - is to use sunscreen and follow a few simple rules. Let's call these rules.

• at any time of the year in sunny weather, sunscreens with different protection factors should be used. In summer, with strong insolation, it is recommended to use a sunscreen with a high protection factor SPF of at least 30, and for owners of very fair skin SPF of at least 50;
• when sunbathing in natural conditions and in a solarium, you should strictly follow the rules of tanning. Be in direct sunlight for a strictly dosed time;
• eat vegetables and fruits rich in beta-carotene (tomatoes, spinach, apricots, carrots, bell peppers). Beta-carotene promotes the synthesis of melanin.
• take supplements containing antioxidants;
• use sunscreens with antioxidants;
• in the summer, wear light clothing in light colors that cover most of the body;
• wear glasses, hats, panamas.

How to treat photoaging?

Unfortunately, it is not always possible to prevent photoaging for a number of reasons. What to do in this case? Don't worry, all is not lost yet. In modern cosmetology, there is a huge range of methods and techniques that can eliminate skin photodamage.

• Mesotherapy gives a good therapeutic effect. Individually prepared mesotherapy cocktails of antioxidants help to minimize the action of free radicals and restore cellular structures. For a stable improvement of skin characteristics, mesotherapy is carried out in courses twice a year.
• Hardware procedures, such as dermabrasion or laser skin resurfacing, will help remove damaged skin, eliminate pigmentation and wrinkles.
• Glycolic and retinoic peeling will eliminate age spots, improve complexion, and accelerate tissue regeneration. Chemical peels should be carried out in the cold season, when there is no active insolation. The number of sessions depends on the condition of the skin and the severity of the photodamage.
• Biorevitalization will restore the hydrobalance in the skin and improve its appearance.
• A modern method – photorejuvenation (a method of hardware cosmetology based on irradiating the skin with a special light range) will help eliminate photodamage and restore the skin. This method can eliminate deep wrinkles, increase skin elasticity and firmness, and normalize regenerative and metabolic processes in the skin.

Photoaging - the sum of changes at the molecular and visible levels that occur in the skin during its long-term damage by solar (ultraviolet) radiation. These processes have significant differences from natural (biological) aging, their synonyms are: actinic dermatosis, heliodermatitis, solar dermatitis, premature skin aging.

Biological and photoaging

"Normal" aging is a natural process when it occurs according to biological terms. Over time, breakdowns accumulate in all organs and tissues, the number of which constantly increases with age. This is due to the combination of many processes:

• slowing down metabolism;
• a decrease in the activity of enzyme systems and their ability to break down toxic compounds;
• depletion of stem cells;
• loss of tissue fluid;
• a decrease in the tension of immunity;
• gradual replacement of functionally active tissue with inert connective tissue;
• deterioration of microcirculation and oxygen delivery to cells;
• changes in the level and ratio of various hormones;
• genetic factors.

The skin, which is the largest organ in terms of mass and area, experiences an increased load, since it is located on the periphery of the body. In addition to the above internal processes, it is constantly exposed to damaging environmental factors - temperature extremes, weathering, dust, smoke, toxins and various types of radiation.

Ultraviolet radiation is a natural factor necessary for the normal functioning of the body. However, with its excess due to constant work in the open air or the systematic abuse of tanning (including in the solarium), it can cause pathological changes in the structure of the epidermis and dermis - photoaging of the skin. Biological and photoaging often occur in parallel, however, these processes differ both in external manifestations and in the mechanisms underlying them.

Molecular mechanisms of photoaging

Ultraviolet has an irritating, stimulating and damaging effect on the basal (basic) layer of the epidermis. The energy absorbed by the skin causes the launch of "harmful" lipid peroxidation reactions with the formation of reactive oxygen species and free radicals that damage proteins and nucleic acids. In the epidermis, inflammation begins, activating the division and renewal of keratinocytes. It is rather chaotic; in parallel, the process of differentiation (successive development) and keratinization (keratinization) of cells is disrupted. All this leads to an uneven thickening of the outer layer of the skin.

In the deeper dermal layers, a phenomenon called solar elastosis occurs - the destruction of fibrous structures (primarily elastin) under the action of enzymes activated by ultraviolet radiation. At the same time, the molecules are compacted, fragmented and twisted into balls; their diameter and number decreases. The substances formed as a result of peroxide reactions are foreign to the body. The immune system begins to produce antibodies to them, which cause additional damage to the fibers.

The diameter of the capillaries increases, the structure of their walls and its permeability change. The speed of blood flow in the microvasculature decreases, congestion occurs and the elimination of toxic reaction products is slowed down, which aggravates the process of photoaging.

External signs of skin photoaging

Age aging is mainly due to a decrease in the synthesis of structural proteins and hyaluronic acid, the level of sex hormones and a slowdown in regeneration processes. It is manifested primarily by drooping and sagging of the skin (gravitational ptosis), its dryness, thinning, the development of seborrheic keratosis and the appearance of yellowish pigment spots in the periorbital areas.

A feature of photoaging is the fact that it can occur long before the onset of the natural process caused by age. The main signs of photoaging, depending on long-term exposure to ultraviolet radiation, are as follows:

• Decreased elasticity and turgor of the dermis.
• Roughening and underlining of the skin pattern.
• Uneven pigment distribution (freckles, lentigo, vitiligo, melasma, hypomelanosis).
• The appearance of neoplasms.
• The appearance of wrinkles (at first small and superficial, then larger and deeper).
• Visible expansion of the capillary network (telangiectasia).
• Point hemorrhages (petechiae).
• Increased dryness.

Photoaging not only leads to premature fading and deterioration of the appearance of the skin - against its background, the likelihood of developing serious complications such as skin cancer and melanoma increases.

Prevention and correction of photoaging

Photoaging of the face is much easier to prevent than to deal with its consequences. The main ways to prevent heliodermatosis:

• Rational tanning - avoiding prolonged exposure to the sun, especially during the "aggressive hours" (from 11 to 16), as well as refraining from too frequent visits to the solarium. This is especially true for fair-skinned individuals (c).
• The use of sunscreens (creams, emulsions, oils) containing retinoids, azelaic acid and other external photoprotectors.
• Taking drugs related to internal photoprotectors: vitamins A, E and C, squalene, ubiquinone, bioflavonoids, alpha-lipoic acid, leukopine, selenium compounds, antihistamines, etc. These substances reduce the manifestations of the inflammatory reaction, strengthen capillary walls, bind free radicals and stimulate regenerative processes.

With already existing photodamage of the skin, it is indicated:

• Carrying out superficial and median procedures based on AHA (fruit) and other acids - glycolic, mandelic, lactic, azelaic, retinoid.
• Mechanical and physical methods of exposure: microdermabrasion, dermabrasion, laser skin resurfacing.

Photoaging of the skin- the result of its damage by ultraviolet radiation - can be corrected by cosmetic methods. At the same time, it is much more expedient and effective to use means of protection and prevention to prevent premature skin aging.

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It is not uncommon for people to experience premature skin aging. Often this is due to external factors. There are two main types: chronoaging is a biological process associated with genetic disorders of cell metabolism and a decrease in the activity of certain enzymes. Photoaging is skin changes caused by ultraviolet radiation. In small amounts, it is good for health, as it contributes to the production of vitamin D, but excess sunlight leads to premature aging of the skin.

Video - Photoaging and how it can be seen (anticipated)

Photoaging

What is skin photoaging? This is damage to all layers of the skin. Photoaging is otherwise known as actinic or premature. The deep layers of the epidermis are most affected. As a result, a complex of negative biological changes and biochemical reactions immediately arises. Under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, the structure of DNA cells is disrupted and even their degeneration and mutation can occur.

Signs of photoaging are different from age-related skin changes. First of all, premature fading of the epidermis occurs due to excessive tanning (on the beaches, in the solarium). Often, ladies neglect cosmetics that protect the skin from excessive ultraviolet radiation.

Photoaging according to Glogau

The Glogau classification of photoaging is divided into four types:

• During the initial stage (at the age of 20-40 years), small pigment spots appear on the skin, there is no keratosis. On the skin - the minimum number of wrinkles. Make-up is light or not required at all.
• The middle stage of photoaging (age from 35-50 years): senile early lentigo, keratosis begins to be felt, but is not visible outwardly. The first mimic wrinkles appear around the mouth. Makeup requires the use of foundation.
• The advanced stage of photoaging (from 50 years old) has noticeable signs of keratosis and dyschromia. Mimic wrinkles are clearly marked, which clearly stand out even on a calm face. Makeup requires foundation.
• During the severe stage of photoaging (from 60 or 70 years old), the skin color of the face becomes gray. There are malignant skin diseases, many deep wrinkles. There are no places of smooth skin at all. Makeup is applied with difficulty or does not fit at all.

Twin sisters who lived in different regions - the effect of photoaging

How to help skin with Glockow photoaging?

• At the first stage, proper care is recommended, according to the type of facial skin. Its individual characteristics and the use of UV protection should be taken into account. It is necessary to carry out surface peels that stimulate the skin and cleanse it. Methods of biorevitalization are shown.
• In the second stage, the program to eliminate photoaging is expanded. The surface-median levels of peels are shown, due to which the microrelief and structure of the epidermis are improved. Deep wrinkles are reduced, small ones are smoothed out. To eliminate photoaging, a complex of techniques is used.
• At the third stage of photoaging, more active methods of rejuvenation of the epidermis are required. In addition, competent skin care and the constant use of photoprotective agents are shown. It is necessary to carry out deep peelings and contouring.
• At the fourth stage of photoaging, a special anti-aging program is drawn up, which must be approached very responsibly. It consists of a combination of several rejuvenation techniques. When using radical measures, supportive and rehabilitation procedures are carried out.

How to get rid of photoaging?

To date, the cosmetic market has developed protection against photoaging with the help of special tools and procedures. Deep wrinkles, dry skin and its hyperpigmentation are eliminated in more than one procedure. Special techniques have been developed to help eliminate photo- and chronoaging:

• biorevitalization;
• photorejuvenation;
• dermabrasion;
• laser skin resurfacing;
• chemical peeling.

Mesotherapy is one of the most effective. It happens that only two sessions are enough to rid the skin of dryness, small wrinkles and hyperpigmentation. During the procedure, therapeutic cocktails are introduced under the epidermis. The usual course of skin aging treatment is 5 to 10 sessions.

Biorevitalization is a cosmetic procedure during which hyaluronic acid is injected under the skin, which has a strong moisturizing effect. As a result, the epidermis becomes more elastic and resilient. It is best to resort to this technique at the first signs of skin aging, immediately after the 30-year milestone. The procedure lasts no more than an hour. The effect persists for several months.

The method of photorejuvenation uses a pulsating stream of light. As a result, the cells begin to actively divide, the elasticity of the epidermis increases, wrinkles are smoothed, and metabolic processes are accelerated. This method is the ideal protection against photoaging.

Dermabrasion is performed using special devices. During the procedure, various nozzles, microscopic crystals and diamond dust are used. The effect is noticeable only a few weeks after the end of the course of treatment. This method allows you to get rid of not only age spots and wrinkles, but also scars and scars.

Laser skin resurfacing is mainly used to remove old skin defects. During the procedure, old epidermal cells are removed and new ones are built up. Elasticity returns to the skin, wrinkles and strong pigmentation disappear.

Chemical peeling is carried out only in beauty salons with the help of devices and special substances: glycol and retinol. As a result, the production of collagen is activated, which contributes to the rapid regeneration of the skin.

Mesotherapy in the fight against photoaging: before and after

Alternative tan

Photoaging of the face can be stopped with one of the most innovative methods of skin rejuvenation. This is her tinting with special means. In dermatology, this technique is used to mask depigmented areas. Basically, self-tanning products contain fructose and glucose, which temporarily stain the horny cells.

A new shade appears a few hours after the procedure. The effect persists for at least 5 days. Self-tanning products are mostly safe, they are not absorbed into the blood, do not cause skin pigmentation and changes in its cells. To prolong self-tanning, preparations are applied after washing with soap. Otherwise, a slightly alkaline reaction of the epidermis may occur, and it will acquire a yellowish tint. To prolong the effect of self-tanning, it is necessary to maintain a normal acid-base balance. To do this, the skin must be regularly toned and moisturized.

When the self-tanner is not evenly distributed, the skin can take on different shades. It depends on the thickness of the stratum corneum of the epidermis. Therefore, it is best to do the procedure in beauty salons, and not on your own.

A few weeks before the session, it is necessary to prepare the skin. To smooth the stratum corneum, acid peels and scrubs are used, made on the basis of azelaic, salicylic, lactic or benzoic acid. The natural tone of the face is improved with diet.

Prevention of photoaging

To prevent photoaging, it is necessary to avoid prolonged exposure of the skin to sunlight. The face is covered with a shadow from headdresses. You can’t get carried away with artificial tanning and do it only under the supervision of a cosmetologist or medical worker. Otherwise, skin melanoma may develop.

Abundant and repeated application of sunscreens, gels or oils: 10+, 16+, etc., up to 30+ (SPF). These products contain filters of chemical or natural origin: lavender and chamomile emulsions, beta-glucans, caffeic acid, etc.

It is necessary to maintain a sufficient level of skin hydration. For this, methods of biorevitalization and mesotherapy are used. The use of antioxidant cosmetics, which are divided into fat- and water-soluble.

Photoaging is a reversible process, therefore, in the presence of the first signs, it is necessary to use drugs based on retinoids, exfoliating components and vitamins. Shown mesotherapy, biorevitalization, dermabrasion and laser resurfacing.

Despite the fact that there are many methods for the treatment of chrono- and photoaging, it is easier to prevent skin aging than to apply cosmetic therapy later. To prevent photoaging, various suitable cosmetic procedures can be done, in combination with the protection of the epidermis from ultraviolet rays (photoprotection).

Video - Photoaging, which gives out our age

Fashion dictates its terms. Today, a so-called “healthy” tan is considered a sign of well-being and success. Few think about the fact that such a concept does not exist. Darkening of the integument of the body is a protective reaction to exposure to ultraviolet radiation. In pursuit of modern ideals of beauty, people subject the body to excessive stress, burning the dermis with aggressive rays. Among the negative consequences of tanning abuse is an increase in the number of oncological pathologies and photoaging of the skin.

Causes of photoaging

Photoaging is the result of damage to the dermis by UV radiation, outwardly similar to the natural aging of the skin. The mechanisms of these processes are largely the same, but due to different reasons.

Note that moderate exposure to sunlight is very beneficial. It saturates the body with vitamin D, stimulates metabolic processes and blood flow. As a result, the supply of oxygen to the cells increases, the immune system is strengthened. At the same time, an excess of ultraviolet deforms the structure of the dermis, destroys collagen fibers.

Damage to the skin is related to the length of the rays that affect it. A short radiation spectrum is more aggressive, mainly affecting the surface layers of the epidermis. Burns, redness, itching appear. With proper care, such violations quickly pass.

The main harm is caused by long-wave ultraviolet, penetrating into the deep layers of the skin. They do not react with cells, but contribute to the formation of free radicals. Elastin fibers are compacted, "compressed". Foci of inflammation are formed, blood flow becomes difficult. Cells are dehydrated, capillaries are damaged. Without proper attention, such negative changes cause lipid oxidation, cell membranes are destroyed. Over time, this can lead to DNA mutations.

Aging under the influence of UV radiation proceeds in several stages:

1. In the epidermis, cell growth is accelerated. Its top layer thickens.
2. UVA rays penetrate into the deep layers of the dermis, deform the molecular structure of the connective tissue. It loses its elasticity and firmness.
3. Melanin is synthesized in excess. Pigmentation spots appear.
4. The skin loses moisture, dries up, becomes rough, flabby, becomes covered with wrinkles.

The Glogau classification divides photoaging into four types:

• the first is seen in people between 20 and 35 years of age. Small spots of hyperpigmentation appear, a few small wrinkles;
• the second type is characterized by the formation of early age spots (), keratotic changes (noticeable to the touch). Occurs in people 35-50 years old;
• the third type is formed after 50 years. Mimic wrinkles do not disappear in a relaxed state, keratosis is visually noticeable;
• the fourth type (after 60 years) is distinguished by a gray complexion, probably malignancy of the tissues of the dermis.

Failure to comply with the rules of being in the sun leads to an accelerated course of negative processes. Protection from A-radiation is necessary not only for lovers of beaches or solariums. The rays of the long-wave UVA spectrum penetrate the glass, the skin is endangered. You can notice the beginning of photoaging by characteristic signs.

Photoaging symptoms

Distinguishing aging skin from healthy is not difficult. If age marks appear in young girls, with a high degree of probability we can talk about photoaging.

Its main features:

• small wrinkles in large numbers;
• dryness of the dermis;
• exfoliation of the upper layer of the epidermis;
• sagging;
• spider veins;
• dark spots;
• "blurring" of the oval of the face;
• loss of elasticity;
• acne;
• neoplasms.

Such changes are characteristic of wilting processes, but in this case they have nothing to do with age. Photoaging occurs much faster than natural. Particularly careful should be people at risk.

Who is most susceptible to photoaging?

People experience photoaging to varying degrees. It depends on many factors. The most significant of them:

• the presence of concomitant diseases;
• age;
• skin type.

In older people, tolerance to ultraviolet falls, its harmful effects increase. If the patient initially has pigmentation disorders (for example, there are freckles or spots), photoaging will proceed faster. The exception is children under 10 years of age. Their dermis is very delicate, quickly damaged by UVA rays.

The most resistant to sunlight are people of Asian and African phenotypes. And there are those for whom ultraviolet is contraindicated. Let's look at some risk groups.

Light skinned people

The highest probability of photoaging in people with fair skin. This color indicates that the body does not produce melanin pigment, which protects from the sun.

Light-skinned people burn quickly. The more often this happens, the higher the cumulative effect of negative changes. Photoaging provokes even single burns, permanent burns accelerate the withering of the dermis.

smokers

Tobacco smoking harms the whole body, but the bronchopulmonary system and skin integuments take the main “blow”.

The epidermis under the influence of nicotine and tar becomes thinner, loses moisture, becomes gray. Metabolic processes slow down, protective barriers collapse. The sun's rays quickly lead to the appearance.

Girls and women during hormonal changes

The activity of melanocytes - cells "responsible" for the production of melanin pigment - is closely related to the hormonal background. Women have periods when the body experiences disruptions in the production of hormones for natural reasons.

• pregnancy;
• lactation;
• adolescence;
• menopause.

At this time, the balance of progesterone and estrogen is disturbed, sensitivity to UV radiation increases. Pigmentation spots appear on the face.

Solarium Lovers

Solariums usually use long-ray type A (UVA) in significant doses. This is the only way to achieve the effect of a quick tan.

Such radiation penetrates into the deep layers of the skin, destroying elastin and collagen fibers.

Sun exposure cannot be avoided. But, if the signs of photoaging have just appeared, it is possible to minimize them (and sometimes completely eliminate them) with the help of modern cosmetic procedures.

Attention: All methods have a number of contraindications! Before using them, you should consult your doctor.

Manipulations should be carried out by a professional cosmetologist in a specialized salon. Only a competent specialist will be able to choose the right effective and safe force for a particular patient.

Biorevitalization

Biorevitalization is a procedure for introducing hyaluronic acid under the skin. This substance is produced by the human body, so manipulation almost never causes allergic reactions.

Injections prevent the negative effects of UV radiation, since hyaluronic acid has the following effects on the body:

• relieves inflammation;
• increases elasticity, firmness of the dermis;
• moisturizes;
• activates the synthesis of its own substance;
• increases the functionality of fibroblasts (connective tissue cells);
• contributes to the restoration of damaged areas of the epidermis.

With the help of biorevitalization, it is possible to even out the complexion. But, one procedure is not enough to achieve the result. It will take several visits to the beautician with an interval of 3-4 months.

Dermabrasion

Dermabrasion is similar in principle to peeling. With a special apparatus, the doctor polishes the upper layer of the skin, while scraping off dead cells.

Dermabrasion happens:

• diamond;
• mechanical;
• laser.

The depth of exposure is regulated by the cosmetologist, based on the degree of development of the problem. The procedure not only improves the appearance, giving the face freshness and radiance. Abrasive particles stimulate the processes of restoration, renewal of the epidermis. Freed from the stratum corneum, the skin begins to fully breathe, receive sufficient nutrition. The synthesis of collagen and elastin is accelerated, blood circulation in the capillaries is normalized.

Healthy cells appear on the surface, wrinkles are smoothed out, pores are narrowed. The oval of the face becomes tightened, the dermis damaged by the sun is completely removed.

Chemical peel

To eliminate the visual manifestations of photoaging, chemical peeling with glycol or retinol is actively used. This procedure stimulates the production of collagen, cell renewal.

The cosmetologist applies a composition based on acids (for example, lactic or salicylic) to the problem area. There is a controlled damage to dead scales, their rejection. The skin is under stress, protective functions are activated.

The result is a general rejuvenation. disappears, the relief is evened out, small wrinkles disappear, large ones become less noticeable.

laser resurfacing

Laser treatment is recognized as one of the most effective methods of combating photoaging. During the manipulation, the beautician directs a beam to the affected areas with a special apparatus. With the help of a light flux, the damaged layers are heated and “evaporated”. The parameters of the device are strictly individual for each patient. Healthy cells react to the stimulus, begin to divide intensively. The structure of the dermis is restored.

Attention: laser resurfacing is contraindicated for any skin damage, including recent peeling!

It is recommended to undergo from one to five procedures, depending on the neglect of the defect. Immediately after the manipulation, the face looks red, swollen - this is a normal reaction. After a couple of days, the dermis turns pink, begins to peel off. It is forbidden to tear off the crusts! They should fall off on their own, leaving new skin behind.

During the rehabilitation period it is forbidden:

• go outside without sunscreen (30-50 SPF);
• use acid-based care products;
• in the first two days, use decorative cosmetics.

Complete restoration of the dermis takes up to three months.

Mesotherapy

Mesotherapy - subcutaneous injection of special cocktails with an ultrathin needle. The qualification of the specialist who performs the procedure is very important. Compositions for injection are selected individually, depending on the problems of a particular patient.

Cocktails may include:

• hyaluronic acid;
• enzymes;
• phospholipids;
• vitamins C, A, E;
• silicon;
• polylactic acid;
• magnesium;
• plant extracts;
• lipolytics;
• anti-inflammatory drugs.

During the mesotherapy procedure, active substances are delivered to the deep layers of the dermis. Mechanical irritation with a needle activates protective processes that stimulate the accelerated production of components necessary for regeneration. The replacement of the epidermis is accelerated, the damaged layers are rejected, giving way to healthy cells.

Photorejuvenation

Photorejuvenation - affects the skin with light waves of a certain length, stimulating the production of natural collagen.

The procedure is absolutely painless, has no complications or side effects. There is no rehabilitation period after photorejuvenation, the effect persists for a long time. With the help of manipulation, you can get rid of many defects at the same time.

Creams against photoaging of the skin

Creams against photoaging are designed to solve several problems at once. Good products have antioxidant, moisturizing, nourishing properties.

To choose an effective cream, you need to carefully read its composition. It should include:

• vitamins A, E;
• lycopene;
• aloe vera;
• vegetable oils, etc.

It is important that the cream is suitable for a specific skin type. Light-skinned people are not recommended to use products with synthetic bronzers. They are suitable only for people with an initially swarthy dermis.

Preparations with a tingle effect for tanning in a solarium (from the English word “pinching”) cause tingling and redness of the skin due to increased blood microcirculation in the capillaries. Thus, special components stimulate the production of melanin. Thanks to this effect, the tan is smoother and deeper.

These tools are not for everyone. They must be applied to prepared, already tanned skin, otherwise you can get severe irritation.

Modern means that tint the skin help to avoid photoaging. Dermatologists use such compounds to mask areas devoid of pigmentation.

Most self-tanning products are based on fructose or glucose. They temporarily (for about five days) stain the cells. The effect appears several hours after the end of the procedure.

The skin must be prepared for manipulation. Align with acid peeling or scrub. Before staining, wash your face with soap to avoid an alkaline reaction. It can stain the epidermis yellowish.

The color will last longer if you regularly carry out toning and moisturizing procedures. It is advisable to follow a special diet.

The diet should include foods rich in beta-carotene:

• tomatoes;
• spinach;
• carrot;
• apricots;
• bulgarian red pepper.

Coloring is best done in a beauty salon, and not at home. If the composition is applied unevenly, the face may turn out to be spotty.

Prevention of photoaging

It is quite possible to protect yourself from the negative effects of ultraviolet radiation by observing a few simple rules.

For prevention it is necessary:

• regardless of the season, apply sunscreen to exposed areas of the body. During the period of active sun, dark-skinned people need to choose a cream with an SPF factor of at least 30, fair-skinned people - at least 50;
• strictly observe the time spent in the sun (or in a solarium);
• in summer, wear light-colored clothes made from natural materials;
• to care for the dermis, use products with antioxidants;
• eat properly;
• wear wide-brimmed hats that cover the face.

At the first sign of negative changes, contact a beautician.

Photoaging is a reversible process. Sun-damaged skin can be restored using modern hardware techniques or cosmetics. The main thing is not to start the situation, to undergo treatment as soon as possible.