Alpine camp "Uzunkol": reviews and photos. Alpbaza Uzunkol Uzunkol kchr

In one of the mountainous regions of Karachay-Cherkessia there is a small climbing camp "Uzunkol", which has existed for more than 50 years. It was broken up in a coniferous forest in 1959. The camp looks like a small village and is located at an altitude of 2100 meters above sea level.

After reading the article, it will be possible to learn not only about the living conditions in the Uzunkol alpine camp. The weather and the surrounding nature are also of no small importance when choosing a vacation spot.

General information about the mountaineering camps of the Caucasus

In total, today, out of 15 alpine camps ever built in the Caucasus, only a few remain. A particularly inevitable decrease in their number occurred after 1991.

However, it was noted that in recent years (7-8 years) mountaineering has again begun to bring good funds to maintain the following alp bases operating today: Alibek, Shkhelda, Ullu-Tau and Adyl-Su in the Elbrus region, UMC "Elbrus", "Digoria" (North Ossetia), "Bezengi" (Bezengi Gorge). Among them is the Uzunkol alpine camp in Karachay-Cherkessia, which is one of the most actively working today. You can come there either with your own training camp, with the release and rescue teams, or carry out mountaineering classes, following the base’s own program that has been formed.

Geography and nature

A distinctive feature of the Western Caucasus is the picturesqueness of the valleys, the beauty of the forests and the steepness of the mountain slopes. The rivers flowing from them to the north (Ullukam and Uchkulan) form the Kuban. The waters of the rivers descending from the Main Caucasian Range flow into the Ullukam River: Ulluozen, V. Kichkinekol, Chiryukol, Uzunkol. The place where the Uzunkol flows into the Ullukam is Kovdun. Uzunkol itself is formed from the confluence of the Myrda and Kichkinekola rivers. This place is called the Uzunkol Glade. In this area, the alpine camp described later in the article is located.

What is Uzunkol in general? This is a mountainous region of the Caucasus. The translation of this name is based on Karachai words, meaning the following: uzun - "long" and k'ol - "gorge". As a rule, this territory includes a part of the Main Caucasian Range and its northern spurs, which form the basins of the Uzunkol, Myrda and Kichkinekol rivers. On the eastern side, this area has a border with the Elbrus region, on the western side - with the Dautsky reserve, which belongs to the Teberdinsky reserve. The latter is immediately followed by Dombai. The highest point of the Uzunkol region is the Gvandra peak (height 3984 m).

Brief history

The Western Caucasus is, as noted above, part of the Main Caucasian Range. This is the Staro-Karachaevsky section, the length of which is about 40 kilometers. Tourists and climbers began to explore this territory in 1936, when the group of G. Sukhodolsky climbed two routes to the peaks of Gvandru and Talychat.

Members of the alpine camps "Lokomotiv" (Leningrad section of mountaineering) and "Avangard" (Leningrad Mining Institute) and some other groups climbed almost all the major peaks of this region during the summer period.

Below the Polyana Uzunkolskaya in 1959, the alpine camp of the sports society "Spartak" was created. First, a tent camp was organized here, and then wooden "Finnish" houses and a stone dining room made of stone were built. About 600 people visited this base for five shifts (preferential vouchers for 20 days). The gorges began to come to life, there were queues for routes. There were many "newbies" (about 6 departments of 12 people each)

In the 60s, climbing groups began to master the wall routes of the peaks of the Uzunkol region: Dalar, Kirpich, Dolomites, Trapeze, Zamok. They were led by well-known climbers - A. Semenov, G. Agranovsky, V. Kavunenko, N. Koshel, A. Kolchin, K. Ratotaev, B. Korablin, V. Stepanov and others.

A well-organized system (alpinist training) suddenly collapsed in 1992. Now the alpine camp "Uzunkol" (sports and health-improving high-mountain center) is part of JSC "Alamat" and is practically not financed by anyone. And he lives mainly thanks to the enthusiasm of the center's employees and young people who come here who want to try their hand at mountaineering.

Description of "Uzonkula"

The climbing base, long known for its own sports traditions, today is one of the most famous and visited.

Initially, this place was a training camp. Now it is a sports and recreation center, which allows tourists to spend active holidays in the mountains and learn mountaineering, as well as improve existing sports skills.

Alpine camp "Uzunkol" has a library of route descriptions. It provides rental services for all the necessary equipment. Experienced climbers provide instruction and exciting hikes in the surroundings for those who wish.

In the camp there is an opportunity to live both in tents and in cottages. Moreover, there are 6-bed relatively inexpensive rooms (about 500 rubles per day), double rooms (about 620 rubles). The option of accommodation in a guest house is the most expensive (approximately 1400 rubles per guest). There is a bathhouse, a shower, a bar, a dining room, a bar, a library and a methodical office on the territory.

The Uzunkol alpine camp is located 79.4 kilometers from Kislovodsk (southwest of the city).

Nature

These are amazing scenic spots. Charming rocky ridges are heavily indented, and therefore, the imagination draws amazing pictures.

There is excellent clean mountain air. The purest water and coniferous trees, as well as the blue sky in a haze of clouds - all this is Uzunkol. The noisy and strong water of the river of the same name runs along the picturesque banks to unknown distances ... In the reserved corner of the area you can see important forest inhabitants - tours. Pine forests and alpine meadows of the foothills are quite rich in medicinal berries, herbs and mushrooms. And all this, of course, environmentally friendly.

About weather

The best months to travel are July, August, September, December and January.

The weather in the alpine camp "Uzunkol" (KCHR) is quite changeable. Either a clear sun shines, or out of nowhere, a cloud appears, striving to pour rain. That the sky is completely clear, then suddenly there is a white haze.

When choosing this base as a holiday in it, you should definitely take into account these climatic features. It often rains in this area in the afternoon. It is reassuring that the length of most routes is not very long, and they technically correspond to their categories.

Routes

Alpine camp is known to athletes from many countries. In 2008, the International Mountaineering Festival was held here. A total of 26 teams from Russia and neighboring countries took part in it.

All routes to the summits are classified by difficulty. There are six categories in total and they all have their own names: Castle, Dalar, Brick, Twin, Chocolate Peak, Dolomites, Nahar, Kyukurtlu. From Ullu-Kam (gorge) you can climb Elbrus (the highest peak in Europe - 5642 m) along the eastern and western slopes. Through the Ullu-Khurzuk gorge, you can go along the famous Kyukyurtlu route (difficulty category - 6 A and 6 B), where the famous healing hot springs of Dzhily-Su are located.

Due to the sharp warming of the climate, over the past few years, there has been a strong melting of glaciers in the Caucasus, and therefore many routes presented as combined, today are more like just rocky ones. Also, many wall routes are characterized by increased danger in terms of falling stones.

Uzunkol (long gorge, Karachay) is a mountainous region of Karachay-Cherkessia. Usually, it includes a section of the Main Caucasian Range and its northern spurs, which form the basin of the Myrda, Kichkinekol, and Uzunkol rivers. In the east, the region borders on the Elbrus region.

Uzunkol is a magnificent mountaineering and mountain tourism area, while it is located away from major roads and settlements.

At the beginning of the gorge there is a frontier post. Eight kilometers above is the Uzunkol alpine camp. The destination of our trip is the Dolomites. We leave the alpine camp and move up the Kichkinekol river. Turning back, we see a breathtaking landscape.

And in front of the towering grandiose peaks.

Having reached the kosh, we take it sharply to the left and go uphill. Gradually we are gaining the height of the peaks surrounding us. From left to right: Filter (3690 m), Twin (3843 m), Dalar (3979 m), Trapeze (3743 m).

Our ascent cannot be called easy, given that there is a 30-kilogram backpack behind our back, and the elevation difference from the foot of the gorge is 1000 m. But lakes should appear soon.

On the way there are tours, here they are not hunted, and they are not afraid of a person.

And finally, at an altitude of 3070 m, the long-awaited Dolomites lakes appear.

The lakes are so called because they are located at the foot of the Dolomites. These rocks are very popular with rock climbers.

Each lake has its own color - this is due to the different content of minerals.

Tours often come to the lakes for watering.

From the height of the lakes, the main peaks of Uzunkol are visible at a glance: Twins consist of two rocky peaks separated by a deep dip with almost sheer walls, in the middle of which rises a needle-shaped "gendarme" ("gendarme" in mountaineering terminology - a rocky ledge on the crest of the ridge). Why not Patagonia?

The peak of Dalar was conquered only on June 29, 1937 by a group of army climbers led by Tsibinogin.

The trapezoid adorning the northern spur of Dalar is the only one of the peaks that is not located in the Main Caucasian Range.

The beauty of Uzunkol will not leave indifferent a person who has been here at least once.

To the website

Author:Kavunenko Rimma Vladimirovna, Moscow,
master of sports in mountaineering, instructor of the 1st category,
deputy director of the a/l "Uzunkol" for educational and sports work since 1991.

Alpine camp "Uzunkol"

HISTORICAL INFO about UZUNKOL

The Staro-Karachaevsky section of the Western Caucasus (Main Caucasian Range), 40 km long. began to be seriously mastered by climbers and tourists only since 1936. In 1936, the group of G. Sukhodolsky climbed routes 1 B k / sl to the peaks of Talychat and Gvandra (V).

During the summer of 1937, members of the Lokomotiv mountaineering camp, the Leningrad section of mountaineering, the Avangard of the Leningrad Mining Institute and some others climbed almost all the significant peaks of this region.

The Western Caucasus is distinguished by the picturesqueness of the valleys, the beauty of the forests and the steepness of the slopes. The rivers flowing down the slopes to the north are the sources of the Kuban. The rivers Uchkulan and Ullukam (15 km) merge to form the Kuban. Rivers descending from the Main Caucasian Range flow into Ullukam: Ulluozen (5 km), V. Kichkinekol (6 km), Chiryukol (10 km) and Uzunkol (8 km). The place where Uzunkol flows into Ullukam is called Kovdun. Uzunkol is formed from the confluence of two rivers: Myrda (6 km) and Kichkinekola (4 km). This place is called the Uzunkol Glade.

In terms of climbing, the most interesting are the Main Caucasian Range with peaks - Kichkinekol, Filter, Zamok, Twin, Dalar, Chocolate Peak, Kirpich and Gvandra.

Between the rivers Chiryukol and Uzunkol there is the Chat ridge with the highest point of the top of the Chat-bashi and then the Dolomites - a wonderful multi-peak rock group. A short spur between the Myrda and Kichkinekol rivers has the peaks of Irchat, Malaya and Bolshaya Trapeziya and Uzunkol peak.

Lock

To the north of the Main Caucasian is the Coursho group. The ridge connecting Coursot with Ch. The Caucasian ridge is composed of peaks: Mursaly, Dzhalpakol, Ak-bashi, Ak-tour, Pyramid, Kara-bashi and to the west: Krugozor Myrda, Trident and Ai-petri.

Between the rivers S. Nahar and Gondarai there is a grandiose rocky ridge - Nahar (12 km) with three peaks: Southern, middle and Big Nahara (Igumine).The Ullukam River originates on the southwestern glacier of Elbrus, from the north it is bordered by the Kebek-Jirin-Kurshou ridge.

Below the Uzunkolskaya Polyana, since 1959, the mountaineering camp of the sports society "Spartak" of the Mountaineering Department of the VDSO of trade unions has settled. First - a tent city, then more solid wooden "Finnish" houses, a stone canteen building - national masonry.

500-600 people visited "Uzunkol" on preferential vouchers for five shifts (20 days each). The gorges came to life, the queue for the routes (even to the distant ones) of the Black Towers. Detachments of "novices" walked in a string - 5-6 departments (10-12 people each). The youth received a healthy lifestyle, hardening, interesting cognitive communication and a feat of will!

Initial bivouacs for climbing were formed: in Berezki, Verkhny Myrdovsky, in Karman, on the "Lamb Foreheads", Ice, on the Dalar pass, under the peak Chocolate on the madder, "Spartakovsky" - on the bridge between Dalar and Twins, Dolomites overnight stays, on the Dolomites lakes .

In the sixties, the development of the wall routes of the peaks of the Uzunkol alpinist region: Dalar, Kirpich, Dolomites, Trapeze, Zamka by groups under the guidance of famous climbers - A. Semenov, Chernoslivin, G. Agranovsky, V. Kavunenko, N. Koshel, A. Kolchin, K .Ratotaeva B. Korablina, V. Stepanova.

The harmoniously organized system of training climbers collapsed in 1992. The Uzunkol high-mountain sports and health center is now part of Alamat JSC, is not financed by anyone and lives off the enthusiasm of workers and visiting youth.

INTELLIGENCE on the educational and sports work of the All-Russian Sports and Educational Center "Uzunkol" for 2000

Director Khabchaev Enver Khasanbievich

Deputy director for educational and sports work Kavunenko Rimma Vladimirovna - ms. 1 cat.

Heads of public rescue teams: Volkov Mikhail Evgenievich - kmc, 3rd cat., Lavrinenko Vladimir Vyacheslavovich - ms, 2nd cat., Zhilin Denis Aleksandrovich - 1r.3 cat.

Doctors: Tiselko Alena Viktorovna - Zr., Milenin Oleg Nikolaevich - kms.

Arrival of participants - 296 people:

of which: performed sports categories:

initial training stage-133 people

"badgeists"- 10 people 50 people

3rd category- 58 people 58 people

2nd category - 23 people 23 people

1st category- 41 people 5 people

kms- 19 people 3 people

ms- 11 people

MSMK- 1 person

During the summer season in WSOC worked - 29 instructors:

	Full Name.		Sport.kv	City
	Abramov Pavel Borisovich
	Abramova Ludmila Vladimirovna
	Barykin Igor Ivanovich
	Vinokurov Anatoly Filippovich
	Volodin Viktor Gennadievich
	Goncharov Sergey Nikolaevich
	Dzhaparidze Yury Otarovich
	Ermilov Sergey Alexandrovich
	Zhilin Denis Alexandrovich
	Zhurzdin Vladimir Ivanovich
	Kirpichev Nikolai Sergeevich
	Kolesnikov Mikhail Rudolfovich
	Korbut Fedor Semenovich
	Kuznetsov Alexander Georgievich
	Kuznetsov Anatoly Alexandrovich
	Kurova Olga Pavlovna
	Lavrinenko Vladimir Vyacheslavovich
	Mukhametshin Rauf Adgamovich
	Melnikov Mikhail Evgenievich
	Semykin Boris Ivanovich			Volgograd
	Smirnova Elena Ivanovna			Volgograd
	Sushko Sergey Evgenievich			Tolyatti
	Tokmakov Valery Stepanovich
	Urbansky Alexander Vladimirovich
	Fedotenkov Gennady Vasilievich
	Fonarev Andrey Yakovlevich
	Khankevich Andrei Georgievich
	Shulepov Georgy Gennadievich			Syktyvkar
	Yablokov Konstantin Yurievich

Ascents made:

Cat. complicated
Number of people
including Moscow

There were 2 independent collections: Stavropol - hands. Magomedov P.P.

Astrakhan - hands. Borzasekov S.V. The camps were located outside the territory of the Uzunkol All-Russian Sports Center, but used the services of the Uzunkol training unit: the dispatch service for entering the routes, training facilities, equipment rental, route card index, luggage storage, car parking, and preparation of final documentation.

The participants of the training camp made ascents:

Cat. complicated
Stavropol
Astrakhan

A total of 1090 man-ascents were made.

Information about climbing routes 5-6th cat. sl. in 2000

	the date	Vertex	Route		Group members
		S.Dolomite	bast.Z.walls		Timokhin L.V. Nesterov A.V.
		S.Dolomite	bast.Z.walls		Semykin B.I. Chentsov V.G. Yatsenko S.G. Shikin Yu.M.
		C, Dolomite	bast.Z.walls		Dubrovsky A.Ch. Belous S.S.
			with AC V. rowing.		Olovyanny O.V. Boyko A.I. Lakeev M.G. Sosnin P.V. Sungatullin P.P. Gromozdova E.M.
			with altern.V. rowing		Mikhailov M.M. Kolesnikov M.R.
		S. Dolomite	bast.Z.sten. option		Milenin O.N. Turchaninov I.V. - first passage
			with variable V.comb.		Kurova O.P. Zabolotny R.V. Nazarov S.N. Vasiliev V.A.
					Akimov S.V. Zhivaev S.A.
		S.Dolomite	bast.Z.walls		Abramov P.B. Vasiliev V.A.
			along the south wall		Maximenya A.G. - solo
			along the N-E rib		Volkov M.E. Fonarev A.Ya. Karpov A.V. Chistyakov S.A.
		twin	according to "Kant"		Lapitsky A.L. Lugov A.N.
			along the N-E rib		Boyko V.V. Zhitnik V.E.
		Peak Chocolate	along the Yu-3 wall		Volkov M.E. Fonarev A.Ya.
		Peak Chocolate	along the Yu-3 wall		Timokhin L.V. Nesterov A.V.
			along the N-E rib		Turchaninov I.V. Milenin O.N.
					Ruleva N.A. Kurova O.P.
			NE walls. In the shoulder		Semykin B.I. Chentsov V.G. Yatsenko S.G. Shikin Yu.M.
			along the NE edge		Dubrovsky A.Ch. Kogan V.E. Bedous S.S.
			along the south wall		Dubrovsky A.Ch. Kogan V.E. Belous S.S.
		Peak Chocolate	Yu-3. wall		Simakov S.A. Ryzhenkova I.P. Volikov K.S. Kolesnikov M.R.
			C. wall bast.		Maximenya A.G. - solo
					Japaridze Yu.O. Pivikov D.E. Khomchenko D.S. Vinokurov A.F.
			by the wall		ShavrovichA-L. Puchnin V.E. Rylov N.V. Smirnov A.P.
			along the "rhombus" 3 walls.		Boyko V.V. Zhitnik V.E. Khomchenko D.S. Pivikov D.E.
			along the "rhombus" of 3 walls.		Volodin V.G. Lavrinenko V.V. Timme E.A. Yanochkin V.I. Yablokov K.A.
			according to S-V Art. bast.		Maximenya A.G. - solo
			along the N. wall bast.		Puchnin V.E. Shavrovich A.L. Rylov N.V.